StrangerDanger

Reference photo.

Noveske made the replacement sling plate. You can still find it on places like Opticsplanet. It’s listed for M1 but it will fit the M4. The trouble is the stock assembly is difficult to disassemble. You need two of those nylock nuts and a Mapp torch with a small tip wand to heat up the thread locker that was used by the factory to assemble the hardware inside the stock. I have one of those tutorial threads here somewhere about how to get it all apart if interested.

I would. It’ll be more abrasion resistant. I could tell the difference between the two types hardness wise. Should save you a few bucks too. The M4 isn’t known for rusting anyway and regular NP3 rates extremely high for corrosion resistance.

This one is done in NP3. I talked to their techs for a while about the benefits of NP3+. The only benefit of the plus is it has better corrosion resistance, but at a cost. The Np3+ surface hardness is lower than regular NP3. The NP3+ also costs a little more. So unless you’re living in a lighthouse, NP3 would serve most people best. Mine was done in about 14 weeks, so get your money together a little quicker! Glad to help. I took a few pictures of the receiver last night. The loading port job came out nice. I’ll post them up in a bit.

Parts came back from Wright Armory on Wednesday. They’re the new go to for Np3 plating. Normally Robar would electro-pencil serial numbers on each part except small screws and such. At Wright, they laser engrave the control numbers in tiny font size 4 lettering. They place them on spots that aren’t likely to show when assembled. I had about 600 parts with this batch. The only negative was they mixed the parts from my sorted bags. So having a couple hundred screws and washers to figure out what goes where can be challenging. They no longer plate titanium parts either. So I’ll have to get the magazine tube and a few other parts painted to match. One off topic mistake I made was sending in the shell plates to my Dillon 650. Apparently there are five plastic plugs in each plate. I thought they were metal plugs. Well they melted I guess so now I’m buying more plugs from Dillon.

Originally this IWC part wasn't intended for the Benelli M4 at all. I took a chance on ordering one and saw if it would work for the application. Once that was done, IWC started marketing them for the M4. They could definitely be designed better for a direct fit, but they work pretty good as is. Smaller screws could be used, but bigger is better.

How close is it to fitting through the sling loop? Sometimes it’s tight and I just hit the screw with a hammer to knock it through the slot. Worst case if that is impossible, I’d get a small concave file and open the slot up a little where the screw passes thru. If you care about the cosmetics, a little Alumablack could be applied to the field area to return it to black. I don’t pay any attention to the shelf on the IWC mount.

“A little dremel action on those seers to polish em up!” Fortunately springs on this platform are easy to replace. Lately I’ve been getting odd ball guns to fix like Winchester model 100’s. What a nightmare gun with minimal parts to purchase for repairs. Work through one problem and find another. Slowly working through 50 years of Bubba.

Yep. You never know who screwed with something before you got it. Lots of old men spring stretchers out there. Stretching it might fix the issue for a short time, but the spring is damaged and will return to set in short order.

Mine basically is. It’s better for varmint hunting at long range. I have a lot more scope than .223 can handle. But it sure is fun raining precision .223 down on a target in semi-auto. With low to no recoil, you can watch the rounds fly down range thru the scope to the target.

Correct. I have around 300 loaded AR mags that have been loaded for 15 years. I’ll pull them out and use them with no issues. Same with various pistol mags from quality manufacturers like Glock/Beretta/Sig and so on. I’d only look to replace springs if a magazine starts having failures.

Here is a shot of a stock handle, FFT titanium and the carriercomp titanium/steel handle. They’re nice handles, well designed and perfect craftsmanship. Personally I don’t like knurling on the handle though. When you’re slapping the handle fast, it can tear up your hands.

On modern springs, they wear out due to compression cycles. The only time this isn’t true is if the spring is over compressed or someone stretches the spring. All bets are off at that point and the damage is done. My hammer is always cocked. I personally don’t like closing the bolt or slide of any firearm and pressing the trigger out of habit. The M4 I’ve had since 2004 has been pretty much cocked the entire time since then with no ill effects.

Pictures of the damage?

That's about normal for the shells. The 7th round barely fits in most cases. Mines left loaded all the time for about a decade now with no negative effects.

All signs point to no sadly. I offered to buy 500 at a time and they still declined.

Color match of the carriercomp is better than even the OEM tubes. The paint on the FFT tubes is significantly different. Weight spec is about the same. FFT costs more and does not come with a US made follower or a Wolff spring. The threading on the carriercomp tubes is done better. FFT can be backordered deep as well. I like FFT products, but when it comes to magazine tubes, carriercomp tubes are the best by a wide margin. I’ve brought probably 40 of them personally over the years and never once had a problem.

They're still active. Their wait time is pretty low lately. I'd place an order online and expect around 4-5 weeks for delivery.

Great to hear!

Todd definitely voices his opinion. Him and I have bumped heads in the past a few times. The trigger packs hold up well when they fit. One set of mine has about 10k rounds on it with no issues. There is no down side to the titanium. The color even matches better than OEM. At least carriercomps does. The machining is better too.

If you went with a titanium full length tube, you’d cut 5.5 ounces of weight off the front end. Plus you’d get the extra compliance parts. The weight reduction was worth it alone to me.

Tough to say without having them in hand and with another set to compare against. Benelli May have fit the trigger parts to that particular frame. Or it’s possible the dogs the disconnector rides against in the FFT trigger are not shaped right and it is allowing the disconnector to rock forward too far. I guess it could be the bottom of the disconnector also. You’ll like the A&S frame. It has a recess for the trigger spring to seat in. It’s also a lot more open on top so cleaning the trigger components is a lot easier.

It’s fine. They’re tapered at the end to allow for the choke.

Good tests. Interesting that the OEM trigger and the FFT disconnector works fine. Same as with the FFT trigger and the OEM disconnector. But pairing the FFT trigger and disconnector presents problems. Checking where the disconnector fits into the trigger, does it appear to be seating poorly or at an odd angle? Limits of movement compared to the OEM one? I’m hoping the trigger frame removes some tolerance issue and resolves the issue.