StrangerDanger

Got the weapon light back from the Cerakoter the. The goal is to match the H20's NP3 finish. The light itself is a Surefire Outdoorsman body with a Surefire 500 lumen head. The Ava Tactical mount is still at Robar getting the NP3 finish.

Looks great planman! Cerakote is essentially paint, but it adheres much better than paints. Plating like NP3 or nickel boron are tougher and have additional benefits like low surface coefficients and corrosion resistance. The only problem with them is you are limited to a single color -- matte gray. With nickel boron, you can at least apply Cerakote to the surface so your color options are unlimited. This is what I did with my M4. It's internals are all nickel boron coated. From the inside of the receiver to the interior of the receiver extension. Mathis will cause some tolerance stacking issues. I had to hand fit a lot of the parts to make them function properly. Clean up is very easy and the action feels a little smoother. But beyond that it was a lot of hassle and took a long time to do. I'm not sure if it was worth the trouble. I've done the same to pistols/rifles with the same results. I have a Winchester lever action 44mag treated the same way. The action feel and loading significantly improved over how it handled new.

An absolute steal at that price. I'll ask my buddy in Australia about it. I'll take it.

I like the color combo much better than the desert camo that Benelli did a decade ago. For contrast, I did mine in Burnt Bronze Cerakote in 2013.

What be this? http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=488067650 At first I thought it was just a shop taking it upon themselves to paint the M4. Then I saw the end of the factory box with what appears to be factory markings and a whole new item number, 11791. And yes, it does look familiar.

Allow this to happen and this country will deserve to burn. Everyone in this country with any sense needs to get out of the cities and into communities with like minded capable citizens. I drive nearly an hour to be out of the cities. My daughter is home schooled to keep her away from these people. We have planted a large scale garden to supplement our needs and to reduce our expenses. We live in what most city dwellers would consider paradise -- a virtual Eden beneath 500 year old ponderosa pines. We pump our own water and do not have sewer or gas expenses. 70 dollars a year covers our communal dumpster fees. Eventually we'll go solar to minimize our dependence completely. I've lived up here for nearly a year. In that time I have never seen a police car, nor a reason to need one.

Awesome pictures Benelliwerks. We have a lot of the same tools. First link is a stainless finished fastener. The second is black. From comparing Benelliwerk's photos to the Fastenal pictures, it appears the head profile is the same. So that lock washer should fit properly.

I pulled the fastener and took some measurements. The allen head units are YSF 010.9 rated, overall length is 22mm. Head diameter is 7.77mm. Thread pitch is a metric 0.7mm coarse pitch. This is as close as I could find to it: http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-head-cap-screws/=3l1xcqryszialeogs4 Will they fit? I can't say for certain. I'm certain the threads will match and the length should be appropriate. What I am uncertain about is the bottom profile of the fastener where it mates with the lock washer. As for more damage to the stock, the screws that hold the rubber butt pad could be rusting. The problem is you'll have a difficult time removing the screws from the buttpad in order to replace them. I tried a few times to get them out and gave up. They'd be difficult to remove without damaging the buttpad. There are a few steel pins inside the stock that engage the notches on the receiver extension. The unlock button itself is also steel. The rest is aluminum and plastic.

I'll pull one out of mine today and try to get some measurements. I'll see if I can find one at the fastener sites. My concern is the proper shaped head on the fastener so it fits that lock washers properly.

Good info 12508. This is one of the inline upgrades that occurred at some point with Benelli. I believe the original M4 produced for the Marine Corps was issued with the philips head fasteners. I know Botach at some point sourced a bunch of these older model collapsible stocks. Most who bought them were reporting that they came with a free sample of Iraqi/Afghanistan dirt in them. I've noted a lot of military gear is moving away from philips fasteners. One of the big reasons is to keep grunts from taking things apart that they shouldn't. Hexhead screws are certainly better. You can apply a proper torque load with less chance of stripping out the fastener. This is assuming you know how to properly seat the hexhead tool into the bit. This may seem like common sense, but I have found many do not ensure that the tool is seated fully to the bottom of the fastener. The more tool you have into the fastener, the larger the area that the torque load is spread. This reduces the chance of ovaling out the hole. Fastener quality isn't always known either. If you've ever spent a lot of time at a place like McMaster-Carr, you know that there is a wide range in quality and treatments available. I have tried sourcing some of the small parts for the Benelli at these kind of sites. They are difficult or impossible to find. Or you'll have to find a European source. An example of this would be the top rail fasteners for the M4. What I would do is call Benelli and tell them about the issue. Chances are they may send you three replacements. That way you don't get stuck paying over 30 dollars for three fasteners. I imagine the hexhead and the philips bits are threaded the same. Just be careful not to lose the lock washers beneath each fastener.

The factory's forked front end can catch your nail if you're not careful. I think it has something to do with your thumb size too. Plus if you're loading fast, you might encounter the problem more.

sukhoi, Are you running a helmet mounted night vision device, or rail mounted? I wouldn't think there was enough eye relief to run a helmet setup unless you were just aiming with an IR laser. This is an area of interest to me since we're exporting M4's to Australia for busting hogs and kangaroos. As for the rmr, I opted for the rm09 adjustable led model. I have several Aimpoint T1's on the M4. They are quite nice. They are just rather big and bulky compared to the rmr. When I'm not lazy, I'll probably sell my T1's and migrate to the rmr's. There are options to get around the top rail issue. You can move to a Velcro card system she'll holder from 3gungear. Or you could just mount the rmr to the asguard rail. This won't be as nice as the Scalarwork rail option though. I used to have the asguard predecessor, the Sidearmor. I found it was faster to load from belt mounted she'll caddies like the ones from California Competition. It kept the weight off of the weapon too. I do understand the point of wanting additional shells with the weapon for a home defense option. I alleviated this concern by draping a bandolier over the shotgun with 55 rounds of various shells in it. I had an Eotech on my M4 about a decade ago. It didn't last. After several thousand rounds, the reticle began to get fuzzy. A trip back to EOTech helped, but didn't cure the problem. I ended up selling it off with full disclosure of the issues. It wasn't an eye issue with astigmatism, I have looked through many other EOTechs, and the issue wasn't there. I have had no issues with the Aimpoints. I think I have 5 of them currently. One nice benefit of running a big EOTech or Aimpoint is it acts as a blast shield when you're shooting birdshot at close range targets. You will get blow back from pellets. Even with eye protection, you will get hit in the face from time to time. The topic will help shield you.

Of the two, I'd go with the Aimpoint. But if it were my shotgun, I'd go with the Trijicon RMR on a Scalarworks mount. Some day I'll swap out my Aimpoint T1's for the RMR. The size profile is much smaller. It does everything you need an optic to do.

My experience mirrors what M2 said. There is a bit of product bias in people's purchases though. Many refuse to admit that they've been swindled. So they'll hype something they bought. I know I've been guilty of this in the past. You try to overlook the bad and embrace the positive attributes. I have three M4's. Only one of them has the TTI shell elevator. It is no doubt a better product than the oem unit. It just isn't worth 80 bucks unless you're trying to squeeze out every bit of additional performance you can get. I'd love to get two more, just not 160 bucks worth of love. I have one in my Australian bound H2O M4 since the owner is the type that wants the best of the best. Currently it is at Robar being NP3 plated along with the rest of the aftermarket and trigger pack components.

I read this thread like three times and still don't know what's going on. There re are a lot of non members who read this site. Their views count. Very few have experience with the TTI parts. Not until recently did TTI even list that the parts mentioned were even compatible with the M4.

I have a few and have installed several for clients. No issues with them. Less chance of it biting your thumb. They're a bit pricy, but a better solution than the weld up jobs.

I don't use thread locker on my magazine tubes or any that I install. The magazine tube can never fully back out when the weapon is assembled since the magazine cap had that detent in place. Being able to take the tube out helps a lot during the cleaning process. Youd be be find with the 242. It may not be as good as the 243, but it'll do the job intended.

The only ammo I have had any issues with in the M4 are those bunny fart gray hulled handicapt loads. I bought them for some women and children shooters. They were just too anemic to cycle the weapon. Dont buy buy magazine tube extensions. Full length tubes are far better.

I'm glad the post helped. You made great choices in parts!

I wouldn't recommend trying to polish the receiver extension. It would be difficult to do and any benefit would likely be marginal at best. I have found oil in the receiver extension tends to collect debris. I've never had good luck with Rem Oil. It's too thin. Be careful with grease, they can slow down the momentum of moving parts. This is compounded upon if you're in cold weather. Shoot a few hundred heavy loads to break in the weapon. Make sure you're planted firmly behind it. The more you limp it, the more likely the weaker loads won't cycle properly. You can literally hear the action moving sluggishly if you intentionally limp shoulder it.

Try connecting to the ejection port side of the shotgun assuming you're right handed at the rear only. Then connect the front at the left side. I only use two point slings now. Vcas from blueforce gear with sewn in QD points is the best for civilian affairs. Padded is even better for a heavy shotgun. Attaching to the opposite side at the rear prevents the sling from bunching up and preventing you from shouldering the weapon. It also helps prevent the weapon from rolling away from your body.

RoadDad covered most of the issues I saw with it as well. The unit also adds several inches of length to the shotgun. It could be lived with if it had a remote switch option.

LoL Thanks for saving me the trouble.

Glad it helped!

Looks great! How is the finish holding up on the titanium magazine tube?