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Benelli M4 -- Trigger, Disconnector and Hammer Disassembly


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When you pull the hammer, compare the OEM one with the FFT unit to see if they match up dimensionally.

 

Does the FFT trigger and disconnector function test properly?

 

Dimensionally they are exact. Yes the trigger and disconnector function test fine. It just seems a little odd that the hammer flops front to back in a battle gun. I put it back together exactly as described and there is really no way to put the hammer back incorrectly. Was just checking to see if other m2/m4 owners had hammers that flopped - lol..

Edited by kjd2121
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It is easier to NOT try and lift the snap ring off the bushing, but rather just expand the ring slightly in place and PUSH the bushing inward just enough to release the snap ring. Upon re-assembly, al

  • 3 months later...
I was just gonna email you about this :) I need to swap out my hammer and was bummed when I saw the photos down

 

I just swapped out my hammer and was hoping to have these instructions as well, but it was really easy to do without any pictures.

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holy sh!t man, what kinda snap ring pliers did u use? Im using some nice channel-lock snap ring pliers, but getting that snap ring off the side is brutally difficult, everytime i put some pressure on it just pops out of the ring and cant seem to get a good grip on it to expand it.. just dont wanna do any damage to this thing...

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I had the exact same issue, I am using Craftsman snap ring pliers. What I actually found worked was to put some pressure on it and lift the opposite side of the snap ring. Came right off very easy that way for some reason. But trying to apply pressure and lift it straight off only resulted in it slipping off time after time. Hope that helps.

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Set you snap ring pliers as spreaders. Compress the pliers to expand the snap ring but do not lift up on the pliers. With your other hand take your finger and lift up on the opposite side. This is how I basically walked mine up and off. Figured this out after fighting with it for about 10 minutes. Every time I would lift up on the snap ring pliers the snap ring would slip off the pliers, like you are experiencing. Hope it helps and good luck.

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I found the Channellock brand to be crappy honestly. I have a set and they don't work for crap. I have a cheap set from Ace that cost me like 10 dollars and they're better.

 

You do not want to be prying on the snap ring. The cam pin is pretty thin walled and will crush easily.

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It is easier to NOT try and lift the snap ring off the bushing, but rather just expand the ring slightly in place and PUSH the bushing inward just enough to release the snap ring. Upon re-assembly, align the snap ring over the aperture on the surface of the trigger group, slightly spread the snap ring and push the bushing into the open snap ring, release the pliers.

Photos with permission: Benelli M4 Anatomy Series Manual

Screenshot2013-07-22at90011AM_zps1520d987.jpg

Edited by benelliwerkes
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Thank you for the advice above with using a tool to push the pin through while expanding the ring, worked perfectly! Quick question for everyone out there as I can't remember what the functionality was like prior to installing the hammer, I just finished installing an FFT hammer for my last 922r compliant part. After installing the hammer, I simply removed the old and put in the new after oiling and greasing, I noticed that after discharging the hammer, in the uncocked position it seems to be loose in regards to having some movement front-to-back, when in the uncocked position, is that normal? I cant remember what my hammer was like before installing the new one, and don't want to reinstall the stock part to verify this. It seems to function fine, just can't remember if the hammer has no movement in the uncocked position or if it does in fact have play front-to-back like mine does now. Let me know, Thanks !

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Great thread!

How are the FFT parts holding up? I am interested to know about the coatings and surfaces of engagement on the trigger, as well as hammer, and how the impact portion of the hammer holds up?

SD, what combo of parts do you use? I'm considering the geiselle hammer, FFT trigger, and stock disconnector.

Very curious about how the FFT stuff is holding up to high round counts...

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I had the Geisselle trigger installed for a long time due to my perception that Geisselle makes the best products possible. However, I changed over to the Freedom Fighter trigger, disconnector and hammer about a year ago. The engagement of either hammer is solid, but I noticed that with the Geisselle hammer installed, it was extremely difficult to cock the hammer when the safety is engaged. It isn't an issue with the factory hammer either. Not really a deal breaker by any means.

 

The finish of the FFT hammer has held up well. I've installed several sets for members here and the fit quality of the FFT is great. If I was buying again, i'd just get the FFT.

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What of the np3 peeling picture on the trigger? Why not use the factory chrome disconnector? What about peening hammer face...np3 come off or flake?

What about hammer hitting disconnector with the FFT trigger, when cocked?

 

Lots of ?'s poorly worded from my mobile

Edited by Unobtanium
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Here is a couple shots of the peening. It is minor, but it is there. Mainly from the contact of the firing pin and where the hammer is impacted when the carrier begins moving rearward. This is after approximately 2,000 rounds. 60% high base #4 birdshot, 30% value pack birdshot, 7.5% buckshot and 2.5% slugs.

 

DSC00126_zpsdd67966b.jpg~original

 

DSC00125_zps1ad8669e.jpg~original

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The Geisselle hammer never experienced this. So it's an option to use with the FFT trigger and disconnector.

Mine may be a bad run from the beginning. I never bothered to ask Todd about it.

 

It could also just be the soft nickel finish being damaged by the impact points.

 

I'll shoot Todd an email, and see what he says.

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The Geisselle hammer never experienced this. So it's an option to use with the FFT trigger and disconnector.

Mine may be a bad run from the beginning. I never bothered to ask Todd about it.

 

It could also just be the soft nickel finish being damaged by the impact points.

 

I'll shoot Todd an email, and see what he says.

Thanks! I did note that racking the bolt with the safety on and the geissele hammer was difficult, as you said.

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Here is what Todd said about the issue:

 

 

Good to hear from you. Yes, such wear can happen but it's purely cosmetic. We've tested these extensively, and they have been in the field now for two years on LEO, MIL, training weapons, professional and enthusiasts guns. Not one time has any one of the three trigger components been returned for any sort of wear and/or performance issues, for two years.

 

Thanks,

 

Todd

 

FFT

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