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can do stippling work for m4 FFT/ OEM handguards, quicker and less expensive than Tango: partial or full, recommend full.?

Brand New / Safe Queen - Never Fired. Purchased 05/2021 Includes many upgrades. Some still brand new in box/un-installed Location: Northwest Houston, TX (290 & Fairfield) Asking Price: $3,500 1) Benelli M1014 Limited Edition / Ghost Rings (11701) 2) Limbsaver 10403 for Benelli M4 3) Briley 3Gun M-LOK Handguard 13” Black 4) Briley Full Length Carbon Fiber Mag Tube/Follower - Black Oxide 5) Briley Stage Saver Adapter & Premium Stage Saver (Black) 6) Scalarworks SYNC Trijicon RMR/SRO Mount 7) A&S Enhanced Trigger Guard (Black - New In Box/Not Installed) ? Freedom Fighter Tactical Oversized Bolt Release Button 9) Freedom Fighter Tactical Wolff Premium High Power Magazine Spring 10) Freedom Fighter Tactical Steel - No-Spin Charging Handle (Black) 11) Taran tactical Benelli AccuGuide Extended Carrier (New In Box/Not Installed) 12) Taran Tactical Benelli Ultimate Reduced Power Hammer Spring (New In Box/Not Installed) 13) Taran tactical Benelli Ultimate Power Trigger Spring (New In Box/Not Installed) 14) Taran Tactical Oversized Benelli Ultimate Safety (New In Box/Not Installed) 15) Magpul M-LOK Handguard 16) Federal Tactical TruBall 2-3/4” Rifled Slug Low Recoil (50 Rds) 17) Black Aces Tactical 12ga Buckshot Law Enforcement 250 road Case Original MagTube & Spring, and Factory picatinny rail are included. Trijicon SRO, Modlite PLHv2 Light, SureFire DS00 TailCap, Modlite ModButton, Inline Scout Mount - Are Not Included *I will take new / more photos and attach later Today*

Might still be in your break in period. I'd lubricate it heavily in the bolt carrier. Manually cycle the action a thousand times or so to really get the surfaces self polishing. Another option to try is to try the shotgun with the original choke and the aftermarket one to see if it affects function. Any other modifications done to the trigger pack?

suppressors compress your gasses and help things become subsonic if I am not mistaken. What you have just redirects the gasses outward. As many have said it’s unlikely. I suggest you take it off and shoot the same shells. See if there is something else going on. if there isn’t talk with the manufacturer and ask some questions. I don’t know much but this is likely what I would do.

The initial defect would indicate a poor sweat solder joint between the sight base and barrel. There is a good chance that the sight is not securely attached to the barrel, a hard bump from the side might knock the sight base right off. Also , a good possibility that the brown rust straining will reappear through the new finish. All in all , not a good situation. Joe B

I just purchased the Scalarworks mount and the Aimpoint RDS for one of my Benellis. I will let you all know how that combo works out.

Those cap prices are nuts!

I would demand a new barrel, or they replace the entire M4

SRO is better. I would skip the shroud as it makes it harder to adjust brightness and bulky. RMR is also bottom battery which is a big negative for me.

When my Benelli M4 Entry 11724 EForm Trust clears, this will be my 4th Benelli I’ve owned. In 1998 I purchased my 1st. It was an HK imported M3 Super 90. Loved the shotgun and traded it for something stupid. Ive regretted it since. A few years later I purchased an M1 Super 90 for work. Didn’t see much use and was impractical for my purpose. I sold it. 2010-ish, I got the itch again and purchased a M1 Super 90 Entry. I loved that gun. Nothing I didn’t like about it. Sold it to fund an optic I needed years later. Having owned both, the only thing I really didn’t like about the M1/M3, was the length. The M1/M3 in an Entry model is pure sex. The photograph of the European released Entry is sick. Huge maybe to get the project to come to fruition between finding a reasonably priced M3 with c-stock, NFA paperwork and custom work. BUT. None of that happening before I’m certain, that someone is willing and capable to do the work. That and I just spent a pretty large sum purchasing my M4 and accessories (T2, Scalarworks, Modlite, IWC, Esstac, Sling, limbsaver). As to which is better, M4, M3… They’re both inertia shotguns. I didn’t have any issues with my M1/M3. The gas piston assisted system is value added. The pump on the M3 is intended to be a tertiary mechanism based on context. A lot of haters, but I like em. Not a shotgun you see to often. An Entry M3 would be a YETI. I’m sure I’ll prefer the M4 Entry. In light of a failing fiat currency US Dollar, the probability of comparison is probably a pipe dream at this point. Focus of resources will probably be directed towards more responsible assets. But the above photographs are sick.

I'm a fan of the new TTI stainless handles. They lock into position better than any other handle I've tried. Like how the OEM one locks into 3 different positions, this one locks into a single position and has directional texture.

Briley handle on M4 and on 1301.

We standardized for parts, ammo commonality, and interoperability. Every adult in the immediate family has a SBR'd 5.56 10.5" AR-type carbine, a 7.62 16" AR-type carbine, a Benelli M3, a Glock 19, and an Omega 36M that can be used on everything but the shotgun. There are two MRADs with .308 and .338LM kits at different locations, and the Omega 36M works on those as well. We also decided to leverage the AR-15 platform's modularity; every 5.56 carbine also has a 16" upper and we have three CMMG Banshee 100 .22LR uppers at different locations. And plenty of parts.

I've got a couple of the old HK import M3T top folders, as well as a couple M4's. Though I love my M3's and the added capability of the semi/pump design which is like the SPAS-12 only much better, I think the gas operated M4 makes for a better SBS. Just my opinion, others might disagree. And, I say that as a guy who things that inertia shotguns ARE Benelli shotguns.

I’m still interested. I don’t think the m4 community is as beholden to Titanium per se, rather that they prefer exotic materials. Most aftermarket stuff is 6000 series junk. Lithium AL and 7000 series is a totally different ball park. Obviously, ti works better in a tube, but imho quality billet makes more sense for chunky parts like a cap or mag button, trigger housing, etc.. I think you’d have better uptake on a ~$75 aluminum cap than a $100+ ti item. Only issue could be bimetallic corrosion on ti tubes, which would be a further selling point on your 4130 tube. not sharp shooting you here, just a different perspective. I have extensive materials experience, but little manufacturing experience.

My choice was SRO 2.5 MOA

First impressions are great. Size is phenomenal. I can see why some friends in my circle are dumping their T-2 and RMRs for this. The walls of the optic kind of disappear once you peer through it. The phone capture on the last picture was hard to do, so it gives an illusion of a fuzzy dot but it is in fact very crisp. There is a very faint blue tint to my eyes and it is on par with the T-2. This tint is also confirmed with some users on arfcom.

blitzkrieg components

I have all purchase receipts and can provide copies. Manual, Oils + Original parts replaced included! Total Paid: $4,132.32 Asking Price: $3,400 Your Savings: $732