Sukhoi_fan

It appears to be a M1. The big plus for you is that it already has a FL mag tube.

I snatched a M1014 barrel off of feebay the other day for 425. Months ago I missed out on a couple of NOS pistons for 30 each.

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It appears someone stole some parts off your rifle...

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Nice. How'd you do that? With a soldering iron?

Is it a $200 tax stamp for a gun originally manufactured as a SBS? I thought it was only $5.

VG condition c-stock off of M1014 with Mesa Tactical QD sling cup attachment on PG with QD sling swivel - $300 or $225 plus your VG condition OEM PG M4 stock, shipped. Finish on metal is in excellent condition (no scratches at sling loop hole or elsewhere). A NIW 3 notch receiver extension available for an additional $100 (will not sell the receiver extension until the c-stock sells). Nothing at all wrong with the c-stock, just concluded that a c-stock is not the configuration for my purposes. First come, first serve.

Put me down for the drawing for the Benelli motorcycle with the eye candy accessory.

A random post for a random drawing.

That's gonna look pretty sweet.

Yes, but I don't recall seeing 'Made in the USA' anywhere on it. If you take a look at the Surefire webpage for the M80 you will note the ITAR export restriction.

It's a good idea to regularly clean the choke and barrel threads and then apply some choke lube or anti-seize compound (like Permatex found at the auto parts store) otherwise it could become a problem if neglected.

Back up, maneuver. (Always be thinking: Break the line of attack aka get off the X) Situational awareness is always key. Tactically, generally, you want to have the butt of your long arm in your underarm, muzzle pointed down directly in front of you (in a 'safe' presentation at a roughly 45 degree angle, yet very quick to bring onto target), so as you pivot your rifle or shotgun pivots with you and all you need do is bring the muzzle up onto target. And if they are still 'too close'* to use your long arm, drop it and draw your sidearm (as you're backing up/maneuvering). JMO *it's widely recognized in LEO circles that if a bad guy with a knife is 7 yards from you and charges you, then you will likely get stabbed before you can draw your sidearm and fire - which is why cops will readily shoot a suspect with a knife, they regard someone holding a knife precisely the same as pointing a gun at them

It's extremely difficult to make deliberate, aimed, accurate shots 'from the hip', and therefore a really bad idea to get into the habit of doing so should one ever be compelled to defend themselves with lethal force in the gravest extreme*. Doing dumb stuff such as 'shooting from the hip' could mean the difference between being exonerated and free room & board in the Graybar Hotel. As someone who's BTDT one gets asked a LOT of questions about why one did what they did in defending themselves with lethal force, therefore it would behoove everyone to consider these sort of things well in advance. *That said, it should be noted that I actually 'shot from the hip' at an assailant who had already seriously injured me and who was running at me from a distance of ~7 yards - the cops' version of the incident was: "You were shooting up the neighborhood with your shotgun!" Of course there were no cops there to witness all this so they were 'shooting from the hip' themselves. Subsequently I went through some tactical training which corrected this 'shoot from the hip' nonsense I had fallen into (because I didn't know any better). As for checking one's semi-auto shotgun for function by shooting from the hip (as in loosely holding it), then that's an entirely different matter altogether. One needs to know that one's semi-auto shotgun will function when loosely held 'cause one may be very seriously injured and in shock resulting in a less than firm presentation.

The used M1014 I traded into was heavily leaded but a tornado brush mounted on a rod inserted into my cordless drill at very low speed made very short work of cleaning it out. I cannot imagine having to get that lead out any other way, it'd be a real *****. Even with a tornado brush on a cordless drill it took 15 minutes.

The true test of how much it's worth is to put it on feebay. I would venture a guess that you'd get more out of it than you have in it...maybe.

Case in point, George Zimmerman. FWIW, I've watched the PD videos of George Zimmerman being interviewed and his reenactment at the scene. I'm convinced that Zimmerman is being 100% truthful and that the incident unfolded just as he says it did. If you want to see a genuine example of what it's like to go through the aftermath of a shooting, just take a look at those PD videos of Zimmerman. If Zimmerman had used more force than was judicious and appropriate, imagine what that would do to his chances of being exonerated in this (what I believe to be was a justifiable) shooting. The aftermath is (usually, generally) far more traumatic and stressful than the incident itself.

lol How funny. Speaking strictly as someone who's actually dealt with the aftermath of a justifiable shooting* (including appearing before a grand jury) along with spending many years hanging out with people who carry guns for a living, I would suggest those who ARE *serious* about their own personal protection to NOT focus on exercising inappropriate and injudicious conduct which through one's 'training' could very likely come back to haunt them. And I guarantee you that in today's climate any use of rapid fire with a high capacity semi-auto in a shoot WILL be used against you regardless of *how* justifiable the shoot was. I would suggest prudence and *train* using deliberate one or two shots, then reassess while moving. Fire and maneuver, keep your magazine topped off. SD is correct, one should train in such a manner that one never allows one's bolt to be locked back on the last shot fired. And naturally one's best option is like Massad Ayoob teaches, keep all your options open on avoiding exercising the judicious use of lethal force in the first place. Of course JMO. *perhaps that's why I take these matters very 'serious' lol

What I'm interested in knowing is if the retaining pins on the promag stock are the same size as the OEM retaining pins, 'cause that's the only shortcoming I can see with the promag stock, i.e. substandard steel for the retaining pins. IMO, those retaining pins are the only parts which make the promag stock not 'gunfight worthy'.

I had suspected the retaining pin on those knock-offs was substandard. As you found out that is a crucial part. Before discarding that stock I would suggest getting a replacement retaining pin from Benelli and give that a try.

Thx for the tip, I'll check it out. How much does it add to the LOP? Or did you remove the OEM pad?

Here's a diagram from Benelli of the c-stock on the M1014. I'm wondering what's the issue in installing an aftermarket recoil pad and why no one has tried it yet. [ATTACH=CONFIG]2156[/ATTACH]

The retaining pin in question is item #7 in this diagram (item #10 is the retaining pin for the push button plunger). This retaining pin is what engages in each notch on the receiver extension to lock it into place. You can view through the hole on the side to see if it's in place or not. It's very simple to install if you need to install it. - [ATTACH=CONFIG]2155[/ATTACH]

I had an OEM Benelli c-stock on a used M1014 I traded into which was doing the very same thing, turned out to be missing the retaining pin. Got a replacement retaining pin from Benelli and now it functions as it should. I suggest you check for a missing retaining pin before discarding that stock.