StrangerDanger

If you look at the face of the barrel hanger that the cap seats against, you should find a small detent that protrudes from the barrel. This is meant to give the teeth on the cap something to catch on. If I recall, the detent has a spring behind it and the spring and detent are staked in place. The Loctite should do the trick to hold the magazine tube in place. Figure if the tube is loose at all, it can let the mag cap move as well. I have a routine where I coat all screws and threaded holes with Loctite primer. Let the parts dry, then apply the appropriate strength thread locker to the parts. Tighten to a spec if one is known. Sometimes I'll use a silver Sharpie to mark the screw and the mounted object to give me a witness mark to see if the screw is moving. A rifle/shotgun without a sling is like a pistol without a holster.

I have never had one of these mag caps come loose? I use my retard strength on the cap to make sure it is seated fully and that the barrel is firmly seated against the face of the receiver. My concern would be that the barrel isn't seated fully in place and it is allowing the barrel assembly to move during recoil. I'd check the detent that is in the end of the barrel that ratchets on the teeth of the magazine cap. You should be feeling resistance to unscrewing the cap.

Work around for if the color bugs you:

The middle Intellibeam has to be modified to fit. The other two do not. You can use the supplied Scout bodies, or upgrade them for lighter weight and better mounting footprints. On the Surefire bodies, you just have to remove the factory mount which is really easy to do to work with the IWC mounting solution. Modifying the tailcap is an optional modification. I would buy the M600DF model if buying today.

Top to bottom: Surefire M600C, Surefire 123A body, Surefire tailcap. 500 lumen output Surefire M600IB modified, IWC M600 Bacbone body, Surefire tailcap. 100-600 lumen output Surefire M600DF, Modlite 18650 body, Surefire tailcap. 1,500 lumen output M600DF Surefire body 18650 Keep Power 3500mAh battery

I have a set of those big dots on a Glock 36. They're fast for target aquisition, but terrible for accuracy. The dot obstructs the target and their front sight post is a lot fatter than a traditional one.

You would remove those two torx bit screws and unscrew the thumb screw. The picatinny mount will then fall away from the body. There are two threaded holes on the base of that mounting lug that will index with the IWC mount. Another option would be to replace the body of the Surefire light with the Modlite 18650 body. The mounting foot offers a cleaner installation and the Modlite body is a little lighter than the Surefire one. Surefire: 30.5 grams Modlite 18650: 27.0 grams

I thought about buying used M4’s on the cheap. Kitting then out a little and having the parts plated in NP3 for resale. It seemed like a lot of up front money to maybe make 500-800 bucks, which the government would want a cut of.

If I miss a point, ask again. 1. You won’t need to disassemble the new extension, but you will want to disassemble the neutered one since you’ll be applying heat. The heat will ruin the main spring and the oil inside the tube will smoke a lot if it isn’t flushed out. 2. Correct on the timing concept. If the extension is canted at all, you’ll see the problem emerge with the collapsible stock. However using the collapsible stock as an alignment tool works well. Another member worked out an idea where you’d install just the extension with loctite, then install the tail piece of the stock fully collapsed to align with the rear sight assembly. You would then let the Loctite set for a few hours before going back and installing the jam nut (with more Loctite.) This keeps you from having to try to hold the extension still while torquing the nut. 3. The way the Urbino stock is held on is by a large screw that threads in to the receiver extension at the bottom. This is the same threaded hole that the pistol grip stock and the field stock use to screw on into place. The difference being the Urbino has you use a screw driver to screw the screw in place that retains the stock onto the extension. The problem is this threaded hole on the bottom of the receiver extension is a plug that can unscrew from the extension. It’s how the main spring and plunger are removed from the extension. This plug isn’t tightened to the extension to any significant degree. I unscrew a lot of them with thumb pressure alone. There is a snap ring that is meant to prevent the plug from unscrewing, but it isn’t strong enough to prevent that plug from coming undone if the user used Loctite on the screw that holds the Urbino to the receiver extension. Worst part is, if that plug comes off, it is usually stuck on the end of the screw inside the stock with no real way of holding it to get the screw out. If I were to use the Urbino, I would take the plug out, clean it and the receiver extension threads with Acetone, then use blue Loctite to hold the plug in place. 4. The Urbino will work on either the neutered or 3 position extension.

It’s tough to get the hue just right. Even on my guy’s, I can tell the difference. The bead blasted ones Carriercomp sells come really close and don’t need any paint.

I insert two of the same size dental picks on the side of the front post. They’re thin enough up by the handle to take up the gap between the post and the hood while I snug up the nut. This helps keep the post from twisting and pivoting to one side. Then as you mentioned, adjust the rear sight to dial in the sights.

There is no simple elevation adjustment in the front sight post. The nut is meant to be tightened until it threads to the base of the front sight post. You can shift the front post side to side slightly when tightening it to the tower. I’ve never handled the factory night sights to see if they’re the same as the Meprolights.

It won’t cause any issues. It’s a pretty low stress part.

Should be fine. Looks more like a scratch from a slipped punch.

You could transfer the internals without any significant issues. The flexible ring is difficult to remove from the receiver extension once it has been installed. This is a small ring that fits in the end of the extension to prevent the plunger from falling out the front of the extension. What will likely happen is only complete receiver extensions will be available for sale in the near future. Some of the internal parts alone are quit expensive. The plunger and the stock retaining screw are probably 20 dollar parts. The spring, flexible ring and the snap ring will get you for 10-15 each. So getting them included for that minimal price difference is a solid deal. The complete ones are they ones Benelliparts has sold in the past. I’ll find you a link to my guide on how to replace the extension, it’s quite involved.

Geissele made only a hammer. The only performance benefit from it was how hard the surface treatment is. They show very little wear after thousands of rounds. Even the OEM hammer gets beat up a little when hitting the firing pin and the base of the bolt carrier. They’re not worth the retarded prices we see since I have never seen a M4 hammer work out to the point that it stopped functioning. I’ve installed probably 50 sets of FFT trigger packs. I haven’t had one fail. I have had to fit a few to certain trigger packs in the past. The fitting was minor. Mainly the hammer wouldn’t move freely since the trigger frame was too narrow. This only occurred on the old aluminum OEM frames. Not saying it can’t happen on the polymer ones, but I haven’t seen it. These trigger kits are getting difficult to get from FFT. It’s always a waiting game for the past few years. I have no idea who actually makes them for them. Briley makes decent stuff and would be an excellent option. Some don’t like the titanium nitrate finish on the trigger. You could have it painted whatever color you want. I’m not sure if they make the parts in house or not. I have no experience with the set that Benelliparts sells.

I see them list on gunbroker from time to time and they can reach the low 4K realm with bids. At that price, you’re better off just sending a regular one in for plating and ending up with a better product. Such as getting your accessories plated and the things Benelli skipped. Plating would take months and cost you a grand or slightly more.

It’s a painted Cerakote H2O, not NP3. It would have to be less than 1800 for me to be interested. Shotgun alone, I wouldn’t be interested in the optic.

I can’t really tell the difference between the 1moa and the 3.5moa dot. I had put a 1moa RMR on my Gen 5 Glock 34 for when I had to do a NRA pistol instructor qualification. Which is 45 feet, 6” circle, 16 out of 20 rounds inside the circle. At this distance, the larger dot took up most of the 6” circle With the 3.5moa. So a smaller dot obstructs the target less, I guess.

That hard 90 degree angle should have been radiused by Benelli. Glad it helped. That’s why they recommend safety glasses when working on guns. Pins and springs can get sent to low earth orbit.

Smaller the dot, the more precision can be had since it obstructs the target less. Larger dots are easier to find in the optic. Personally, I go with the smallest dot I can get. I’ve never had a hard time locating the dot inside an RMR on the Benelli.

They all do this. Eventually the edge will be rounded over. It’s cause by the brass part of the shell making contact during the ejection cycle. If it bugs you, buy some Alumablack and rub it on the bare aluminum. Apply more as the marks bother you.

You’ll want the Push Button Sling Swivels. I’d recommend having them sewn in place.

https://www.midwestgunworks.com/benelli-m4/recoil-spring-tube.html You do not want the 5 position tube. It won't work with your stock. https://www.gunpartscorp.com/gun-manufacturer/benelli/shotguns-benelli/semi-auto-shotguns/m4-super-90?sort-by=partkey Sometimes Gunbroker or eBay even will have them.