StrangerDanger

If you can show pictures of the trigger pack removed from the shotgun it might help. Take them with the hammer cocked to the rear. Also is this a real H2O or a Cerakoted silver model?

Benelligunny is right on all marks. I use a curved 1/16 punch for this task. It’s one of the Brownells punches with the nipple on the tip. These punches are consumable but tend to last a while unless you’re rough on it. Pay attention to where the spring is before you disassemble.

They wrote me back and said no to plating titanium and magnesium parts. The rest would be ok.

It’s hard to say exactly where your problem lies without having replacement parts on hand to test. It could actually be the trigger frame itself, the trigger, hammer or disconnector. Pull the trigger pack out and cock the hammer with your thumb while pulling the trigger. See if you can get the hammer to slip past the disconnector. Then try to pull the hammer to the rear without your finger pulling the trigger and see if it slips past the trigger seer. It’s almost certainly one of those 4 components. You could buy aftermarket replacements such as the A&S trigger frame, and maybe a FFT trigger/disconnector/hammer set and swap out the parts to correct the issue. Maybe a slight chance the trigger pin bushing is bent or out of spec. My guess is Benelli would take care of you even out of warranty since the firearm isn’t safe. If not, I’d gladly take a look at the trigger pack for you - just pay return shipping. I think we could walk you thru everything yourself though.

If spraying just the outsides Cerakote is a fine choice. I'm looking in to Nutmeg as a NP3 replacement.

How fast are you firing rounds? Sounds like the hammer is falling. Something is likely out of spec on the trigger, the disconnector or the hammer.

Yeah - that is completely different. They didn't open the port up. You can tell by looking at where the pin for the bolt release is. Glad the edges don't feel sharp to you. The pictures were a little deceiving.

Good info, I hadn't seen Nutmeg before. I sent an email out to them to see what their capabilities are. The Slick Shot seemed promising for a NP3 substitute.

Yep, always love the lifetime warranty gimmick. I wonder if they sell the plating side of the business if they'll have to assume all those warranties. He has left it up to me to decide what to do. I'm considering a Teflon -S coating. But I hate experimenting with someone elses equipment. I've done nickel boron in the past and it was a nightmare due to tolerance stacking issues. Every moving piece had to be fitted by hand to make the shotgun functional. There are other companies that offer nickel with teflon. I noted that some of the photos they use showing the substrate surface at a microscopic level were the same pictures Robar used to hype their process. So we might be able to go that route and end up with a generic brand of NP3.

Those edges still seems pretty sharp and should have been broken. No sharper than the original receiver, but a soft blend would do it well.

I couldn’t believe it either. I had to email them myself to verify. Sure enough, they’re out of the game. A lot of manufacturers relied on their plating services. Apparently they’ve been looking for investors or a buyer for awhile now. So if you have a bunch of money, you could pick it up for pennies on the dollar.

Got some really bad news today. Robar is closing shop as of tomorrow. As it sits, there will be no more H2O’s with traditional NP3 finishes. Never would have thought they’d go under.

Read the message wrong.

Gen 2 is designed to handle recoil better, so I’d go with it. I like the 1moa dot size. So the RM09. I don’t find the small size hard to find when you’re using a firearm with a cheekweld. Smaller the dot will cover less of the target giving you better accuracy.

You’re after the holy grail of weapon lights. Light up near the muzzle and the activation switch at the handguard. Had Steiner made their mag cap replacement light have a remote activation switch, it would have been a winner.

BlueForceGear sling and the handguards returned from Tango Arms for the stippling. Nice work as always. I have a painter who has color matched the NP3 finish quite well. He is going to do the lamp head and the plastic ring that holds the rubber button of the flashlight’s tailcap in place. These parts can’t be plated in NP3 since the electronics cannot be removed and that ring is plastic.

Welcome. You're almost there. I sold out of those extensions a long time ago. Now the price is too high for me to hold on to them. Benelli isn't very receptive to working with home based FFL dealers even though there isn't a real dealer for a hundred miles of me. Numrich arms used to be a good source for the extensions, but then they started sticking people with two position tubes instead of three. I usually buy from Benelli Parts myself.

Thanks! Those tutorials were fun to do. I'm amazed that photobucket started working again.

A good substitute is the Impact Weapon Components light mount. It's actually a simpler design. Cosmetically I prefer the Ava Tactical model, but it is what it is. Not sure what happened to Joel, but I hope all is well with him.

Nice build. I've swapped out about two dozen of these receiver extensions. The part you listed is all you will need to make the collapsible stock function. Here is my tutorial thread from a few years back explaining the process.

Thanks! I ran into that same problem when ordering a sling for this M4, they only had black kryptek for the front portion of the sling. So for this one, I bought an all black one with gray plastic triglides. I might have put a gray pull tab on it, but I can't remember. The sling is still inbound. Notice we can post more than two pictures to a post finally!

Can't hurt. I have never seen any followers that did anything special besides be special colors.

After the polishing out was done, I took the flat areas down to 1000 grit to be sure tooling marks were gone. I didn't go any further than that because NP3 won't have that mirror finish anyway. What I do I wrap the end of the sand paper around a flat file. Then I work over the flat areas to be sure all the hit spots are removed. Usually you'll see deep scratches or tooling marks that are deeper. It can take a bit of effort to sand those imperfections away. Once done though, it's amazing how beveled those corners become. The factory receiver is full of 90 degree angles inside there that can cut your fingers when you're loading fast.

Got a bunch done today. Broke down the collapsible stock for plating. The button spring is in the bag. Those springs are coated in grease. Tore down all the other accessories that have come in. Still waiting on a few small parts. A few small OEM parts are back ordered, so that will slow some of this down. I also knocked out the loading port job tonight. It's my least favorite part of doing one of these builds. No matter how many you've done, putting a file to someone else's 1800 dollar shotgun is always scary. The first step of one of these port jobs is to use painters tape to give yourself some guidelines on what you want to do. Take into account the bolt release, the profile of the trigger pack and how aggressive you want to open up the area around the magazine. I used one of my complete trigger packs to plot my cuts. My Wilton vise has been getting a lot of love this year. Mounted to the top of my Milwaukee work benches has been a huge improvement. The top of the work benches (I have 4 of them) are covered in rubber mats. I put the mat beneath the vise so that I have a nice work surface that doesn't mar anything. I put painters tape on the sides of the receiver and used padded vise jaws. Be sure to check your side profiles. The point of no return. Once you've broke the anodizing, there is no turning back. A few minutes in. The initial cut is to profile the shape. Using a large flat file, you can keep both sides uniform. Deeper, and making a lot of chips now. Continue checking your side profile to see how much material has been removed and if each side is uniform with the other. If that's the goal at least. My favorite bits with the Dremel. Having the pen attachment makes things a lot easier. This bit breaks the corners with ease and removes the tooling marks. After I cut my profile, I removed material from the inside to enlarge the mouth.

The GG&G bolt release is excellent. I have done some of the drill and tap ones like the TTI unit, I didn't care for it. It stuck out from the receiver too much and would likely get hung up on things. I didn't care for the GG&G bolt handle though. It weighed over twice what the factory bolt handle does an could cause the action to operate sluggishly. Mostly a problem with anemic loads.