benelliwerkes

Agree if it's loose, then obviously skip the heat step. I have yet to see an unmolested factory magazine tube loose. Also, upon disassembly the rod can be used to compress the follower down the tube away from the receiver to avoid heating it and the spring that can lead to deformation of particularly the spring. Just a different Plan than yours I guess.

Montefeltro magazine tube continued: Photo's by permission: Anatomy Series of Manuals - Benelli M1 / M2 You are welcome.

Montefeltro Magazine tube continued: Photo's by permission: Anatomy Series of Manuals - Benelli M1 / M2 Using a modified cleaning rod as illustrated is elegantly simple.

The Montefeltro magazine tube designs are indeed a piece of work. You do not need to remove the trigger group to remove the magazine, however two good reasons to do so: 1. It's easy to re-install it. 2. A heat source (typically heat gun) will be necessary to release the factory-applied loctite from the magazine tube threads; leaving the trigger group in place just acts as a heat-sink requiring more / longer heat to get the job done and unnecessarily heating up the entire receiver too much. Photos by permission: Anatomy Series of Manuals - Benelli M1 / M2

A member of snipers hide forum is looking for a Surefire M80 forend to buy.

The off-set design of their mounting point lends itself to a beer tab style failure, continually rocking the thin wall with each use.

I have not disassembled / re-assembled a M4 barrel extension.

Most likely the plunger was not engaging the safety detents correctly, a hammer should not be necessary. Photos by permission: Anatomy Series Manual Benelli M4 Super90

Make sure you get the order of assembly correct and it's pretty straight forward. That is all I have to say about this. Photos by permission: Anatomy Series Benelli Super90 M4 Manual

It is important to understand that 2-3/4" and 3" shotgun chamber designations means the gun has a chamber length and an ejection port that is designed to handle shotshells of these lengths of the FIRED shotshell, i.e. the full length of the shotshell when its folded ends of the shotshell have opened up inside the chamber upon firing. The unfired 2-3/4" shells are quite varied in their unfired lengths, many by more than 0.1"....when this multiplied by 5-7 cartridges there is then a variance of 0.7" or more....this inter-shotshell variance in turn will only allow 6 of 7 Brand X shotshell to load in a magazine, whereas the shorter unfired Brand Y will load 7 of 7 in the magazine. The manufacturer of the magazine tube obviously used a a certain size shotshell in combination with a certain magazine spring when defining their magazine tube lengths / capacity ratings. That 1/4" (0.25") your last shell is not going in ......is almost 3 times (0.7") the common total variance among shells. Try shotshells of shorter OAL. SO, unless your favorite shotshell length is the brand only loading 6 of 7 into the magazine, don't cut your magazine spring.

I believe it was developed for their shooting team interests.

They are idiots promulgating stupidity.

The adjustable LED has a battery life of 4 years continuous illumination using a 4-8 setting, at ambient temperature of ~ 70 F. I use the adjustable 3.25 MOA on this one.

When shooting at night / darkened interior room / cave the problem area upon your first shot is "the brightly lit area" at the end of your muzzle, the blinding flash that will result in your inability to maintain front sight visual reference, particularly with a shotgun ! The operators' illuminated optic dot is likewise lost in the flash. This of course is just one more reason to employ flash suppressors on weapons of most kinds during night ops. Good looking setup SD. Nothing more frustrating than trying to post up a few quick photos and Photobucket not cooperating.

Once the stock retaining nut is secured to compress the springs against the threaded stock retaining plate, the threaded bolt cannot turn anymore as in order for it to happen, the stock retaining nut would have to be ripped off the other end of the bolt; it is this configuration that allows the slave nut to be unscrewed without fear of the bolt turning during the process. Same principle as using a double-fisherman's knot to secure to mountaineering ropes together; opposing knots cannot pull thru each other. Photo by permission: Anatomy Series Manuals

SD - No need to clamp the stock in a vise. The socket wrenches at either end will control everything necessary. Using a nylon locking style nut for the slave nut is pretty handy.

You are welcome. Now - back to sunday football

Photos by permission: Anatomy Series Manuals

Photos by permission: Anatomy Series Manuals

Photos by permission: Anatomy Series Manuals

Photos by permission: Anatomy Series

It is a convoluted Italian assembly for such a simple part placement. Photos by permission: Anatomy Series Manuals

Very nice. I love hybrid stuff like this.

You mean these staking marks ? I just re-stake it at offset positions with a small punch; only requires a small amount of displaced material to retain pins.