KB Fab

I would really like to see better detail. As it is, I can hardly make anything out. Any way you can add these to photobucket and display them with the {img][/img] code?

The only difference that I'm aware of is that the carriercomp tube is cerakoted (baked on like powdercoat) to match the finish of the barrel whereas the FFT tube is has a muted type finish (not a coated product) to match the barrel finish. I believe that both companies also have other versions that are a different titanium finish. FFT calls it their "brilliant" finish and is shiny and carriercomp has what they call a "muted" finish which is more of a dull, blasted, looking finish. Both companies have pictures of the respective tubes on their websites. http://shop.carriercomp.com/main.sc http://freedomfightertactical.com/

Here's what it will do to a zombie at 20 yards. If he hadn't been wriggling around, or I would have let him get closer, that third pellet would have hit.

You should try patterning these out of your M4. They work great in mine. http://www.winchester.com/Products/New-Products/Pages/pdx1-12.aspx

The serial number (on the bottom portion of the receiver) and the barrel number are not supposed to match. The SN is all you need to worry about.

You're best bet is to speak with the Class III dealer you are going to have do the transfer paperwork. They will know what you need to do. I'm working on a Benelli M4 SBS right now and as far as I know, we haven't run into anything yet regarding the fact that it is imported.

Here is a thread that explains the NFA process. http://www.shotgunworld.com/bbs/viewtopic.php?t=80131 Here's who I would trust to do the barrel. They do a lot of Benelli SBS barrel work. http://www.kingarmory.com/

I'm pretty sure those receivers are aluminum, not sure how they could rust. I'd also bet that the barrels are blued the same as the other ones. Where are "these people" you speak of that are having "problems"?

It's funny, I don't have any problems using the ghost ring sights with my c-stock in the middle position.

It's funny, I don't have any problems using the ghost ring sights with my c-stock in the middle position.

As long as your M4 is a model 11707 then all you have to to is take off your existing stock and replace it with the c-stock. Here is a video that details the process. If it is a model M1014, then you will need a new recoil tube that has the notches for collapsing the c-stock.

The handles are at the coaters. It takes longer than you might think when you are a small fish swimming in a big pond. Have faith and you will be rewarded. KB

Not a big fan of the new format.

That looks cool!

I love it. He lambasts me for my attitude and instead of practicing what he preaches, he responds randomly to a thread with these positive comments. Way to go! I've bookmarked this one for a later date Hopeton.

No rail option but it is a US made (922r compliant) OEM design. http://freedomfightertactical.com/products-page/forends-and-followers/the-freedom-fighter-tactical-922r-compliant-forearm-forend/

You can always call Benelli. Does it have it on the parts breakdown in your manual? The other thing you could do is take some drill bits and, using the shank end, see approximately what size the hole is. Then, see if your local hardware store had some brass rounds the same diameter and fashion one yourself. Should be a pretty easy fix.

I was pretty sure that was the case. Thanks for chiming in.

Since the barrel is chrome lined, you won't see much residue buildup in there. I use a nylon bore brush when I need to and then follow it up with one of these. http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=527709 http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=385914

Do you know for certain that you need one? I was under the impression that if you had a registered item like an SBS that 922r didn't apply. I certainly could be mistaken about that.

Mesa Tactical also has a pistol grip Urbino for the Supernova.

Thanks for all the suggestions guys, I ordered some of the 44/40 and will try the Aluma=Hyde if that doesn't work.

Well that is good to know and I suspected as much. Given that the receiver is made like it is, care also needs to be taken in how it's held while attempting this. If you wanted, you could go by a welding store and pick up a temp. crayon to help with the heat. I was thinking that it should be able to handle 150-200 degrees for the short time you would need to soften the loctite. The crayon will tell you when it's reached temp so you don't cook the thing. Let us know how it goes.

I tried to do the same thing on one of my SNT's and that nut would not budge. I was also reluctant to heat it up for the same reasons. That said, there has to be a way to do it. My guess is that you would need to slowly heat the tube with a low temp heat gun and concentrate the heat a few inches away from the receiver. I suspect that whatever polymer that receiver cover is made of should be able to withstand a little heat but without committing to doing it, the question remains. I have an OEM C-stock for mine but having a US made option would probably sell very well.