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My Noveske QD mounts installed


Xchief30

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I know it's been done here and postef a few years back. I just decided to finally install a pair of QD for my M4 field stock (NJ legal). I put one Noveske QD on each side, Front is mounted with the AVA mount , I think they came out rather nice....

 

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Edited by Xchief30
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I’m a fan of a good sling on every rifle and shotgun. I’ve used Blue Force Gear two point padded slings. I’d adjust the sling so that when the adjustment strap is pulled tight, the shotgun will be cinched tight against your body. That way you can go hands free and not have it flopping around.

 

If you’re right handed, I'd connect the sling to the rear socket on the ejection port side of the weapon. Connecting to the outside helps control the roll of the weapon.

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That looks great, but I went with the other Noveske QD (M2) mount to fit into the Mesa Tactical stock with some slight modifications. I wasn't comfortable permanently drilling into my stock. I can still switch it to the other side if I want to use a web sling. I know it's not in the same spot as yours, but how I have it works for me.

 

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Edited by AnToNicS09
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I'm curious why you chose that position on the stock?

 

In all honesty, I didn't want the sling/swivel near my face when shooting with the sights or RMR.

 

SD : I'm using the Blue Force ( not padded). But when I connect it the way you suggested, the gun seems to "roll" onto it's side, maybe it's not tight enough ???

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Yeah...sorry 'bout that but, there is a solution without drilling more holes into your precious stock! I have one of these mounted in my standard PG stock and it's most excellent.

 

https://www.noveske.com/collections/parts/products/benelli-qd-sling-plate

 

Or, if you must have the ambi option, there's this one too, but one side will have to use a para-clip type swivel such as Magpul makes.https://www.noveske.com/collections/parts/products/qd-hook-sling-plate

 

As SD stated, you want the QD socket and sling swivel on the opposite side of your cheek weld on the stock whether a lefty like me or a right handed shooter.

 

That way when the gun is slung across your body, the sling will pull the stock in close to your chest, not roll it away from your body. And, the sling and swivel is not in your face when the gun is up to fire.

 

Here is an excellent tutorial on how to remove the sling plate, easy peasy.

 

https://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/33262-Benelli-M4-Rear-Sling-Plate-Removal

Edited by Evolution
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Yeah...sorry 'bout that but, there is solution without drilling more holes into your precious stock! I have one of these mounted in my standard PG stock and it's most excellent.

 

https://www.noveske.com/collections/parts/products/benelli-qd-sling-plate

 

Or, if you must have the ambi option, there's this one too, but one side will have to use a para-clip type swivel such as Magpul makes.

 

As SD stated, you want the QD socket and sling swivel on the opposite side of your cheek weld on the stock whether a lefty like me or a right handed shooter.

 

That way when the gun is slung across your body, the sling will pull the stock in close to your chest, not roll it away from your body.

 

Here is an excellent tutorial on how to remove the sling plate, easy peasy.

 

https://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/33262-Benelli-M4-Rear-Sling-Plate-Removal

 

I actually started doing this install, the first nut even came off easily . But with the next steps scared me a little.. I can cut a car apart with a Jaws of Life, in my sleep, but this is my M4 , we're taking about... I should have shipped it to SD in the first place

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More than one way to skin the cat, and your intended use comes into play.... I prefer the sling sockets opposite the ejection port side so I can sling the gun tight on my back without the bolt handle gouging me. Drop the rear QD about half way down the stock and its away from your face when the gun is mounted. Yeah, the picture is a rifle but my scatter gun hangs the same way when slung in matches. You get the idea.

 

stevep.jpg

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In all honesty, I didn't want the sling/swivel near my face when shooting with the sights or RMR.

 

SD : I'm using the Blue Force ( not padded). But when I connect it the way you suggested, the gun seems to "roll" onto it's side, maybe it's not tight enough ???

 

It’s likely rolling because of how low on the stock it is. The top is rolling away right?

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I actually started doing this install, the first nut even came off easily . But with the next steps scared me a little.. I can cut a car apart with a Jaws of Life, in my sleep, but this is my M4 , we're taking about... I should have shipped it to SD in the first place

 

Would be glad to help. It’s impossible to take apart without heat inside a polymer stock. So that is always fun. You also need a second 3/8” nut to reassemble the stock properly.

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Yes, it's really quite simple to do. I used a butane fireplace starter to apply direct heat without the periphery of the stock getting flame, first to the nut, then to the tombstone and a slave nut to remove and re-install the stud.

 

Patience, a little confidence, and an understanding of how it's put together is all that you need.

 

Thanks to SD & benelliwerkes for that info.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Glad I could help. I think we charged 60 bucks with return shipping?

 

First step is to remove your buttpad via the two small holes in the rubber pad with a Philips screw driver. Put a little oil or spit on the holes and the screw driver will press in to it without harm. Feel for the driver to index with the hidden screws within.

 

Without having a second 3/8” nut, it would be a nightmare to do the job. You’ll be able to get it apart, but you’ll get stuck on the reassembly. I remove the existing nut with a little heat from a MAPP torch on low flame. These nuts have a nylock polymer insert that helps keep them in place. They should be a one time use item, but you can use them a few times without any real concern. You’ll want a deep socket 3/8” wrench so it will seat over the center shaft that protrudes out through the top of the 3/8” nut.

 

Then install that 3/8” nut on the opposite side tight. This is the tapered end that screws in to the receiver extension as you screw the stock on. You don’t need retard strength; but you want enough torque on it so you can unscrew the center shaft without the nut coming loose on you. This gives you a way to grab the center shaft and apply torque to it.

 

Then I apply more heat to that tomb stone shaped plate. I then unscrew the center shaft via the 3/8” nut from the receiver side of the stock. This is why it has to be on tight. If the threadlocker hasn’t broken down enough, the nut will unscrew instead of the entire center shaft from the tomb stone plate. You watch the end of the stock to see if the shaft is turning. Once the tombstone comes free, you have a stack of spring washers on the shaft. I use a long poker to press against the center shaft then tilt the stock so the washers fall on to the poker in the correct order and arrangement the factory sent them in. If I recall, there are 8 of them and they’re all identical. Each one is concave and you stack them so each two’s dish shaped concave faces each other.

 

Now the center shaft can be removed from the front of the stock since the nut will still be in place. Now you can pull the sling plate out the side of the stock.

 

Wire brush the threads of the center shank and tomb stone plate to clean off the factory threadlocker. Coat the threads with Locktite primer if you want to be fancy.

 

Now for reassembly, you insert your sling plate through the side of the stock in the orientation desired. Then insert the center shaft through from the receiver side of the stock. You should still have your 3/8” nut in place since for all purposes, it’s stuck and there isn’t anything to grab on to with a vice to remove it. This doesn’t matter at this point anyway. With the center shaft in place and held there by your ratchet with a deep 3/8” socket, place the spring washer stack back on the center shank from the rear of the stock. Now reinstall the tomb stone plate and use your socket wrench to screw the center shaft back in to the tombstone tight. There is only one orientation that the tombstone plate will fit. I apply red locktite to the threads that interface with the tombstone plate and the final factory position of the 3/8” nut. You do not want threadlocker on the tapered side of the center shaft that screws in to the receiver extension. Now, install your second 3/8” nut on to the end of the center shaft tightly. With this new nut in place, it will hold the center shank in place so that you can now unscrew your original 3/8” nut that is currently on the tapered side of the shaft.

 

Reinstall your buttpad and you’re good to go. It’s all about being able to apply leverage where you need it. Thank for local Italian engineer for over complicated design.

 

Or you can send it to me! It takes me more time to tape up the box and print the shipping label than the job itself.

Edited by StrangerDanger
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