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This was posted by iwc on the gram. Like stated, the recessed part does not fully go into the slot.

Too bad I'm band from there. And already got one.

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pretty painless swap. The TG goes in much easier now, the safety is 2x as loud and has a more sold feel. Not sure it was a necessity but I’d do it again! ?

Boy you guys are really illustrating to me how little I know about these threadlockers. I was kind of a Red Pill -- Blue Pill kind of guy...

Same here. Been waiting since August

Don't know for sure. We'll have to order one from Aimpoint to test out to give you a definitive answer.

Samsung and Sony cells are both good cells. Probably whatever they can get at the time. Great 18650 Test that is illuminating: 18650 Testing

I am finishing up some other projects and then I'll make a very very small batch available.

No. A local gunsmith to my location. Previously good work. Returned the shotgun with stock on to conceal the shoddy work. Only discovered when stock removed to cross reference for a assembly of another complete tube.

ALRIGHT! Got back from latest field exercise to find some goodies from FFT (& a group called Aridus Indusrties for my Wife's Beretta 1301 Tactical)... Made some phone calls and sent some emails, and hoped for the best. Now I just need time to work on these projects. Thanks to all once again for the help & insght. More to follow shortly...

I used a fair amount of blue. It's easy enough to break free and cheap insurance. I might give Vibratite VC-3 a shot on the new one.

Mine needed a bit of persuasion. I believe I had to file it a bit. Installed on newer m1014 “blue receiver” m4

big oof. Exactly why I made my own screwdriver since I never found a decent one off the shelf. There should really be a M1014 armorer's tool in the box of every brand new M1014.

I had an LE discount available so picked one up with the mount. I dig it. But for T3 Micro I would like to see turret adjustment without caps. Perhaps flush like the Aimpoint ACRO or Trijicon SRO. Don't change mounts.

I am taking assembling a bunch of these tubes so I ended up making my own version: My prior solution was this Wera 16mm. You need to modify this to be 2mm thick. https://www.amazon.com/Wera-Sheet-Metal-Slotted-16-0mm/dp/B00A8QYK34

Hello- new to the group as I just bought my first M4 and brought it home last night! Gun is brand new. Got it home, followed the directions to clean, lube, and assemble. Followed some of the direction here and applied a lot of lube. Right away in working the bolt, something was not right- it was hard to pull back and kept sticking back. Thinking I had done something wrong, I disassembled, watched a bunch more YouTube videos on disassembly/assembly, and then very carefully reassembled. Same issue. Bolt would be difficult to pull all the way back to the locked open position, would ‘hang’, locked back, and it would take a very firm wack with my palm to get it to go forward back into battery. I did a lot of troubleshooting, reading of forums. Made sure barrel fully seated, nut firmly cranked down. I even tried reassembling without the trigger group installed. In running the bolt without the barrel installed, everything was smooth, but when I reinstalled the barrel, and the barrel extension, it would hang/freeze/stick again. Eventually, I figured out that the front of the bolt, is rubbing against the ejector, and there is a gouge forming on the underside of the ejector. I have attached some close up pictures to hopefully better illustrate, as I am still learning the parts and may not have the right name for the parts. If you look closely on the bottom of the ejector, there is a groove forming where it hits and grinds. In searching the internet, I did find a forum thread on AR15.com where it sounds like someone had a similar problem and their gunsmith removed some material on the one part of the bolt where it was rubbing to get it working. Before I do something that drastic, thought I would check here first to see if there is anything I am missing or if this is a common/known problem. I can link to that thread, but wasnt sure the etiquette here for that. Help! I was so excited getting home with a new M4 and have spend the night and this am trying to get it figured out! Thanks!

It can also be the cam pin hole was drilled off the specified angle.

I’d send it back rather than chance shooting it like that. The bolt might not be seating fully into battery when the bolt is forward due to that alignment issue. As Unobtanium mentioned, something is likely machined out of alignment. The bolt should be centered properly. My guess is Benelli will replace the bolt carrier group and the barrel assembly. Unfortunately it will take several weeks to have corrected.

Could the cam pin track im the carrier be machined incorrectly? Thats kindof what this looks like to me.

I'm not sure how lenient Benelli is with their warranty stuff, but I wouldn't have taken a file to anything. Should have contacted them and sent it straight back...

Unfortunately I ordered it online from Sportsman’s Warehouse. When I picked it up, it was still in the box taken apart, arrives with barrel and bolt out. I took out the items and inspected them, couldn’t see any wear or issues, but since this was my first M4, I didnt know the procedure to assemble it, and so just left it in the box. Now that I have some time with it I would know there was an issue, but even if I had put it together and it was doing it, unfortunately I probably would have thought it was user error. And the staff at Sportsman’s Warehouse I am sure would not have known, at least the ones that were working that day. Hard lesson learned, uggg . . .

Hey @StrangerDanger or anyone else who can- see attached picture. I spent the weekend troubleshooting the gun. I had found this post on AR15.com https://www.ar15.com/forums/armory/Benelli-M4---Bolt-stuck/1-508609/ Which after reading it, sounds like the same problem I am having. I took a small file, and did a light filing to the edge of the divot, which was very sharp and is what is digging into the ejector housing. By doing that, I now got the bolt to cycle and function instead of binding. Locking the bolt back, I can see that the bolt is ‘canted’ slightly, and was wondering if this seemed normal compared to any of your M4s out there. As you can see from the pic, the ejector divot is not centered on the ejector housing, and wondering if that is normal? After calling Benelli this AM, they want to have me send it back to them, which of course I can do but will be several weeks, and just sucks after being so excited to finally have an M4. So before I do that I thought I would check to see if that looked normal or not? Thanks all!

Bummer man. Like SD says back to the drawing board for that one. Never should have left the factory. It seems to me that once the Covid scamdemic started, Benelli QC/QA went down the tubes, at least with the M4 from what Iv'e seen.

You’ll want to contact Benelli for that issue unfortunately.