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Showing content with the highest reputation since 05/25/2019 in Posts

  1. 5 points
    Hello everyone We have identified 3 companies we will be Partnering with for our metal finishes for the Firearms Industry. The losing of The Robar Companies inc. did not effect any of our OEM accounts , we still have many companies that have been sending us parts for metal finish, Robar (being in the same building) was the only gunsmith shop that was allowed to do firearms directly with us. We will be letting everyone know soon where they can send their firearms and parts to for all our metal finishes.
  2. 4 points
    The SRO was developed by Trijicon to provide a purpose-built pistol red dot for competition, which the RMR is not. That’s why the SRO has a broader FOV and, most importantly for pistol users, the ability to change the battery without removing the entire optic (something you have to do with the RMR). However, Trijicon’s own reps have gone on record to say that the SRO isn’t built to the same durability standards as the RMR, since the taller glass is more prone to breakage. Before you make the call on an optic and mount, I would encourage you think about what your preferred sight picture is. I have a collapsible stock on my M4, and I find that with it set to my preferred LOP, the factory irons (which I believe the Sync can co-witness with) are actually too low for my taste. This is why I have an Aimpoint T2 on an ADM low mount using the factory pic rail. I find that that gives me the perfect sight picture. YMMV.
  3. 4 points
    As a certified firearms instructor, I would preface saying that the best firearm you have is the one you’ll actually carry. The shotgun in the house will do little good standing in the driveway. Every time I have needed a firearm, I have never had the luxury of 30 seconds to go retrieve one. I would recommend seeking profession training to ingrain the firearm rules. I’d recommend both you and your wife attend one since knowing your legal rights is as important as picking a gun. I’d do this before spending a bunch of money.
  4. 4 points
  5. 4 points
    Glad to see that manual on my G-Drive is of use to people! 😊
  6. 4 points
    “Carrier Loading” (aka Ghost Loading). See page 24 of the USMC M1014 manual LINK to USMC M1014 manual
  7. 3 points
    There is a lot of extremely good comments and advice here, IMO. Deciding to arm yourself at home or concealed carry away from home is really a lifestyle change. That can sound overwhelming but it shouldn't deter you from taking the first step on the journey. Other than parroting what others have already said, my best advice is for you and your wife to do it together if you can; this should be easier because it will be new to the both of you and you won't have the typical scenario of the know-it-all husband telling the little wifey what she needs and how to do it. Do some research on gun shops and training in your local area and talk to people and co-workers. One word of caution though, don't buy a gun because someone told you it is what you or your wife needs. Rent guns at a local range and get training on how to use them. There are many examples of people thinking that a particular weapon is right for them only to try a few others that they like better because of fit, weight, caliber, recoil, operating system, etc. I am a member of US Concealed Carry Association (USCCA). They provide insurance for their members that are involved in a self defense shooting but they also have a great magazine and training to help you on this journey. I would definitely heed what Evolution said regarding what is a justified shoot. USCCA discusses this aspect of self-defense often. Obviously you've done a bit of research already as you know the M4 and are on this site. Nine .32 caliber pellets hitting a target at 1200+ feet per second is very lethal and the reason my M4 sits behind my bedroom door loaded with buck. But, I also have pistols stashed around the house and garage and another on my hip. Not to insult you here, but it is a common misperception that a shotgun doesn't need to be aimed and can be used effectively when shot form the hip. A shotgun is NOT a street sweeper unless your watching a movie with Doc Holiday in it. It HAS TO BE AIMED like any other long gun as the pattern of pellets will not spread like the movies would lead you to believe. 00 buckshot will pattern around the size of a baseball at 30' and roughly 12" at 75'. These numbers can and will vary but not enough to argue about when considering the topic. Do a little You-Tube/Googling on shotgun patterns to get a better feel for it. As it sounds like budget is not a huge obstacle for you, you might consider his and her weapons whether they be shotguns, handguns or a combination of both. As a matter of reference, I don't consider myself anything of an expert on guns. I'm not a big burly and bearded guy with punisher tattoos on my arms and I don't do sweaty black and white photo shoots for Guns & Ammo magazine. I'm just a firearms enthusiast and a student of self defense. I hope you and your wife start the journey and really enjoy the ride -- it can be very fun and addicting!
  8. 3 points
    I will agree that training is very important. Both you and your wife should pursue that. The M4 is an excellent choice for a home defense shotgun. It's probably a better choice than a pump because of inexperienced people short stroking the pump action and not feeding the next round in a rush. A semi auto would be more reliable when shooting quickly. As Stranger and Nails have said. Consider a handgun as well. The M4 is only good if you have it with you which is not very likely all the time as you move around your property. A handgun is easier to be carried always. There are many small 9mm semi autos to choose from. Spend time at a range where they also sell and you can try different models with your wife. Select what feels right and seems intuitive to shoot. I would suggest looking at the Sig P365 MS (manual safety) which is small and easy to carry around,. Another good choice is the Glock 19, though it's larger. It just depends on what you like and what she likes. Regardless of what you decide, training and understanding Situational Awareness (like Don said) is very important. You do not want a weapon to become a liability instead of an asset.
  9. 3 points
    Check your local community for firearms courses of instruction on "home defense". Many shooting ranges/academies/centers provide classes covering protecting your family and home. Your spouse can attend to learn, as well. Most "Home Defense" courses of instruction will cover firearm types, techniques and tactics, as well as, safe room setup, surveillance, and the most important item being maintaining Situational Awareness.
  10. 3 points
    The M4 will fire that crappy Walmart valuepack 2 3/4 birdshot all day long if you want. Gun store commando trying to sell you what he has on hand.
  11. 3 points
    Benelli would be happy to sell you a model with all the evil features. Unfortunately too many people vote Democrat and they threw a bunch of feel good useless laws in the way. Then you have a bunch of cuck Republicans that go along with their crap. Don’t think too much about having to buy parts just to get the features you want. Think more along the lines that you’re upgrading your bad ass shotgun. If my M4 came with a full length OEM steel mag tube, I’d be buying a Carriercomp anyway for the other benefits.
  12. 3 points
    The forum has been really slow lately, so I figured I'd try to add some content again. Recently I was contacted by a client to put together the ultimate Benelli M4 with a focus on reliability, and reduced perceived recoil. Cost is not a concern. The main goal was to have a shotgun built for home defense. So, with that said, here is the roughed out plan. The M4 is a 11707 model. It's an older version that has an aluminum trigger frame. The shotgun itself is brand new and never appears to have been fired. This is an 18.5" barreled model. Receiver Upgrades - Loading Port Modifications - GG&G Oversized Bolt Release - TTI Stainless Bolt Handle - FFT Reproduction Handguards Stippled by Tango Arms Stock Upgrades - Benelli M4 OEM Collapsible Stock - IWC MOE QD Sling Mount - Limbsaver 11011 Custom Fit with Noveski Adapter Plate Magazine Tube Assembly - Carriercomp Titanium Full Length Magazine Tube, internals polished - Carriercomp Magazine Follower (Old style with the red plastic indicator) - Carriercomp/Wolff Magazine Spring Trigger Pack - A&S Engineering Trigger Frame - FFT Trigger/Hammer/Disconnector Kit - FFT Shell Elevator - DMW Oversized Safety - Wolff Trigger Pack Spring Kit Sights and Optics - Scalarworks Sync Rail - Trijicon RMR Type 2, RM09 - 1moa dot size - Meprolight Night Sights Weapon Light Package - Surefire M600DF 1500 lumen output. - Impact Weapon Components Benelli M4 Light/Sling Mount - Surefire tailcap modified to remove the shroud Sling - BlueForceGear Padded QD Sling Refinish All parts are to be refinished in NP3 by Robar. Plastics will remain black. Items such as the lamp head on the weapon light will be painted to match the NP3 finish. The Trijicon RMR will be left alone. I received the shotgun on August 6, 2019. By August 7, 2019, the shotgun had been fully disassembled down to the smallest parts. Threaded parts were cleaned up chemically and with a wire wheel to remove any thread locker compound. Cleaning the parts up eats up a lot of time when done right. Even the bolt head is disassembled which is nearly an impossible task without some specialized tools. Getting that roll pin that holds the extractor claw out is almost an impossible task. You need a tiny curved punch in order to tap it out successfully. I disassembled his pistol grip stock so that the sling hardware and the installation screw inside the stock will all be plated in NP3 as well. As expected, the two screws that hold the rear sight in place are destroyed upon removal (the tip of the screw almost always breaks off.) I believe LPA stakes the top of the screw and creates that cupped shape. The nut that holds the front sight in place is a one time use item and will be replaced upon reassembly. This nut cannot be NP3 plated since it has a nylock insert. Small springs are bagged and tagged for reassembly. Some of them are confusing to know the difference by just looking at them. Springs like the one that holds the bolt handle detent and the extractor claw spring can be easily confused with ones from the trigger pack. I'll begin the loading port modifications once the A&S trigger frame arrives. I plan to go high, on the port, but not as high as Briley. I also plan to open the mouth more than Briley typically does. The entire loading port will be dehorned and there will not be a single sharp edge inside the mouth. Mine are all done by hand, so it is a little tedious. The owner supplied the carriercomp components, and the shipment from FFT arrived already. The handguards from FFT were mailed out to Tango Arms this morning. Will update with more as we move forward.
  13. 3 points
    15,000 rounds later and a mix of Nickel Boron and NP3 plated parts with a surface layer of burnt bronze Cerakote. Due to the ongoing crisis, I decided it would be a good time to clean the M4. I have just been shooting more oil in to the M4 for the past two years or so. It's ate about 2,500 rounds in that period of time without any failures. I decided to delete the iron sights from my M4 since they obstruct the view of the optic. My Intellibeam weapon light is off being painted for the past month or so, so I'm roughing it with my 500 lumen M600C head that was painted previously. The bolt carrier group and trigger group is all NP3.
  14. 3 points
    I'm a fan of the velcro systems over the hard mounted ones. The velcro ones weigh less and crush flat when not in use. I didn't care for how stiff it was to pull the shells from the Mesa one either.
  15. 3 points
    RPC - Epic story of your loving wife! I like your build but curious about the light and its operation. Looks like an end-cap switch. Have you run the gun with HD loads and manipulated the light as you might in a HD situation? Do you change your thumb position to switch the light then back to more of a standard grip? Just wondering about the ease of operation and if the bezel around the end cap digs into your thumb during recoil. Would a remote tape switch be better? I guess this question would make for a new topic.
  16. 3 points
    I almost died by a bear attack, I live up north where the big ones roam.. I knew a 12ga slug was a great choice for bear protection and carried a Mossberg pump action and practiced with it regularly. At the time I was against a semi-auto shotgun because I had convinced myself that simple was better,.. and who in there right mind would pay $2000 for a shotgun!? 😏 I woke up covered in moss and fresh pungent soil. My breathing was raspy as though I had flim that I couldn't quite cough up. I couldn't see out of my left eye and I could smell and taste that distinctive iodiney smell of blood. My heart pounded back alive with a great rush of adrenaline as I started to recall what had happened to me and where I currently was.... I was buried alive, by a bear. You see, a bear wont usually eat something its killed right away, it will bury it and come back to it later after it has ripened up a bit. This knowledge was flooding through my brain faster than the speed of light as I lay there contemplating my next move. I've told this story over and over again now thousands of times and I've come to realize that we; the bear and I, were playing a chess game of sorts. He made his move by hunting me down and attacking me, I countered his move by a misplaced shotgun slug due to adrenaline followed by a short-stroke of my shotgun leaving me with nothing but a "click" of the trigger when it really needed to count. The bear did what he does best and I assumed the fetal position playing dead until I couldn't stand the pain any longer of him ripping off a but cheek and almost removing my left foot. I blacked out. I didnt realize just how comfortable I was in this makeshift early grave until I decided to move. The pain was unlike anything Id ever experienced before and I let out a grown that didn't even sound like it came from me. Now,..back to the chess part..... This entire time the bear was sitting a few feat away so as I had just got my first breath of "dirt nap" freedom the all to familiar crunching sound of bear teeth on my skull was back again....actually this whole story is made up for your enjoyment...the reason I purchased a m4 is because I got tired of my m3 jamming. have a good day gents. Picture my camera took during the attack ...Im on bottom..
  17. 3 points
    I plan on it. Nothing else to put it on. I liked my MRO on my SBE II so much I put one in my M4 as well.
  18. 3 points
    Funny you should ask, this particular seminal fluid collector was made by our very own resident engineer and horse whisperer. Word has it he's one hell of a Nerf-gun painter too!
  19. 3 points
    CTL seems really promising. They're the ones who were actually doing Robar's plating. So if you like it, you'll like their product. I'm setting up under my FFL to be a processor/dealer for them. I don't think they intend to accept firearms from the general public, but their dealers will be able to act as a middleman. It doesn't seem like they'll have any gunsmithing services for complex disassembly. If this all shakes out, I'll gladly accept shipments as I've done for years and be that middle man who can tear it down and reassemble it properly.
  20. 2 points
    Shout out to Carrier Comp for their communication and quality! Nice work matching the midnight bronze. Removal of the stock mag tube was easy as there was only a small amount of red thread locker applied at the factory.
  21. 2 points
    I insert two of the same size dental picks on the side of the front post. They’re thin enough up by the handle to take up the gap between the post and the hood while I snug up the nut. This helps keep the post from twisting and pivoting to one side. Then as you mentioned, adjust the rear sight to dial in the sights.
  22. 2 points
    DFWSFO, Just wanted to offer my sincerest thanks for your help and taking the time to post on this subject and offer an alternative. I appreciate your willingness to spend some time and trying to help me resolve my concern. Thank you. I decided to go with the ScalerWorks mount and the RMO6. My M4’s primary role is home defense and although I don’t like the co-witness view it just seemed to make more sense given my desire to have the iron sights readily and immediately accessible In the event of an (albeit rare) optic failure.
  23. 2 points
    Yes buy with confidence. I purchase a lot from them after I bought a thermal unit from a guy that works there. I currently have a couple of backorders there now.
  24. 2 points
    It is really just an extended and ported choke tube with wicked looking teeth on the end. The “no slugs” comes from it being an “Extra Full” constriction. Carlson also marketed a Cylinder constriction tube in the same style that was OK with any shell type. Both are showing "out of stock" at Brownells and Carlsons
  25. 2 points
    Thanks! The mounts are easy to install. The front Mount is part of the IWC light/sling mount. It replaces the factory front sling mount. https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/multi-light-benelli-m4-mount-scout/ The rear QD sling mount is also from IWC. It fits right thru the factory sling loop. It’s pretty easy to install as well. https://www.impactweaponscomponents.com/product/qd-rotation-limited-buttstock-sling-mount-n-slot/
  26. 2 points
    Drill/tap a blind hole about .250” deep. (Don't drill all the way through – that can weaken the attachment of the stud to the shell latch.)
  27. 2 points
    When I had the Larue Mount, I tightened the lever really tight and it kept it from tearing it up. The Sync rail is a better setup in my experience. You can’t get any better than the Carriercomp tube. They custom blend the Cerakote finish to match the factory barrel. It matches better than the OEM tubes.
  28. 2 points
    I have a M300 on my 590 and a M600 scout on my M4. Honestly, the M600 does not seem to have twice the lumen output @ 1000 vs 500 for the M300. It's brighter but, not twice as much. Anyway, I think the scout line are fantastic lights, bombproof.
  29. 2 points
    As an FYI, ShootingSight should be releasing a tool steel hammer for the M4 in a couple of months. If you are interested, please email [email protected], and we will get in touch as soon as they are available. These will be CNC machined Rolled Plate S7 Tool Steel, so the highest grade you can get. Price TBD - under $100. It will be 100% US made, so 922R compliant. Art Neergaard ShootingSight llc www.shootingsight.com
  30. 2 points
    No update. I would not hold my breath. In looking at the basic geometry - ie where they put the pivot pins, I do not see a way to make the trigger significantly better. Since there are other less expensive 922R parts out there to get to the required count, I'm just going to stick with the hammer for now. Sorry.
  31. 2 points
    I forgot to mention, Democrats get to pay double the listed price in order to pay their fair share.
  32. 2 points
    Some folks have flush mounted QD sling docks into the stock, accessing the work area via the buttpad cavity. There have also been folks who have installed a QD sling dock plate in place of the existing flat sling loop, however they indicated there was a fair amount of "gunsmithing" type work involved as that part of the firearm is not very service friendly.
  33. 2 points
    Glad you got it worked out op
  34. 2 points
    The money you payed has nothing to do with it! You bought it, you broke it, you have it fixed. That’s the real world...
  35. 2 points
    scratch that, I got it. The bolt needed to be forward for that last half inch...
  36. 2 points
    Okay...I called Benelli today. After being thrown around on hold and waiting 15 minutes (I felt bad for the operator, she sounded like this was a college job for her and I could all but feel her cringe when I said "Hi, you put me on hold and I waited 10 minutes and the system directed me back to you". Completely understandable, but I work with people all the time and always have, so I empathized...ANYWAYS>..) Benelli finally got to me on the phone. I was informed that there is ONE! spring for the M4. It's part number is:70053 But wait... I have seen part number 70052 bandied about on this forum as well! Is benelli misleading me? Well, I asked the nice lady to punch in 70052. Turns out this is the part number for the mag tube itself. SOCOMguy is correct. There is only one factory spring for the Benelli M4. It is meant to go with the factory 5 OR 7-shot tube. I am going to go and test things out with the Benelli follower and stock spring, as it is what SHOULD be in there according to Benelli. (Also, I find it quite telling that it has MORE tension on the last round than does the SRM M4+2 spring they sell with their kit. All evidence points to the rep I spoke to at Benelli being correct). Also, if you look at the "extended spring" on the e-guns site that is recommended with their extended tube ( TUBE: http://www.e-gunparts.com/DisplayAd.asp?chrProductSKU=981490&chrSuperSKU=&MC= SPRING: http://www.e-gunparts.com/product.asp?chrProductSKU=981390&MC= ), its Benelli part number: 60479 (acertained by a call to E-guns). According to Benelli (and E-guns when you click on this part number), this item fits: M1/M3 Super 90 and is a factory type spring. NOT extended capacity (which Benelli only offers if you get a +4 or larger extension, and not at all for the M4 model). I have thus spoken with 2 Benelli Reps and both of them have told me 70053 is the ONLY spring spec'ed by Benelli for the M4. Reguardless of the mag tube. The fact that I have not found any other spring online made by Benelli for the M4 confirms this. There you have it, 1 hour of my day spend fiddling with mag-springs and data to put this to bed.
  37. 2 points
    The pirate had me going. I thought Ken was going to show up and interject an, “Ackchyually...” and school us on how to fight off a polar bear with his German musk.
  38. 2 points
    I recently got an m4/mag upgrade and dealt with the 6 rounds problem. I could only fit 7 with target loads, 6 with everything else. I'm spamming the top googled threads with this reply because got sick of being told it's about shell length and unfixable, or I have to cut my spring to fix it. I could never find a thread that just gave me a clear answer about an easy spring swap or anything else that worked. I'm blown away by how hard it was to find a clear answer on this simple topic. The fix? I replaced the factory spring with a wolff m4 spring from freedom fighter tactical and it went from being a half inch away from holding 7, to holding 7 of anything 2 3/4" long. It's tight, but mine holds 7 of everything now. This isn't meant to be an ad for wolff, as there may be others out there that would fix the problem, but it worked for me and should for you. Non-target-load 2 3/4in shells are longer and that's a fact, but assuming your m4 parts are the same dimensions as mine which they should be, your M4 WILL hold 7+2 if you get the spring replaced. I hope I can bring a few people's blood pressure down if you are dealing with the same problem and as frustrated as me with the threads full of non answers out there.
  39. 2 points
    Thought you all might get a kick out of this. I'm making an M4 charging handle (well, likely several varieties). Stem will be case-hard steel for wear, while the handle will be aluminum for weight savings. Here is a video of the threads being cut (I love my CNC lathe), as well as some 'nearly complete' parts. Picture Video 2019-12-06 17.49.13.mov
  40. 2 points
    Welcome! Hide your wallet.
  41. 2 points
    I was on leave for a while and hadn't paid much attention to this forum. HOWEVER, I got caught up today and was laughing at his arrogance, kind demeanor, communication skills and overall superior intellect! Of course I noticed this when he first joined and could only say, WOW?! It looks like the herd finally turned on him and your clever and humorous responses had me giggling. I only have one regret, I wanted to buy some butt-ugly hand painted glossy cammo stocks for my next build. I already have a leather codpiece, thank you. Oh the sheer sorrow. Or is it shear? Or Cher? Oh, ROFL, ROFL!! Should I really hit send...?
  42. 2 points
    You wouldn't change your position no matter what amount of evidence was given, so why bother? Telling you about the M4s' with 10,000 rounds of high base through them with EOTech 552's would be a waste of time. Or the 100+ Benelli M4's that have come thru my shop for work in various configurations. So why argue? You can do as you like.
  43. 2 points
    Im sorry if no one has gotten back to you yet. Please email me at [email protected] with your contact information and i will add you to the email list.
  44. 2 points
    I have this set and they’re worth every cent. All of the various benefits SD mentions, haven’t yet found a use that this kit didn’t meet.
  45. 2 points
    "Not sure why anyone would need a ghost ring on a shotgun anyway, but I'm sure someone on this forum will explain it to me!" OK, I'll try. A ghost ring is designed for a quick acquisition accurate shot at longer ranges than normal shotgun shot ranges such as turkey hunting and taking out dirtbags beyond grenade-throw ranges. The eye tends to automatically line up the front sight in the middle of the rear ring, making for a quicker shot. At least, that's the theory. While a ghost ring set obviously isn't optimal for clays shooting (you won't find pics of Kim Rhode shooting a GR-equipped O/U in the olympics), I've pounded thousands of orange discs over the years with my older M1 with GR sights. Since you're supposed to be looking at the bird with both eyes open and not the sights, I've never found the rear sight interfering with my ability to track the target. But hey, that's just me.
  46. 2 points
    Just saw this. You want to take the internal parts out of the installed receiver extension so you aren’t heating the spring and lubricant inside. When I put the receiver in the vice, I have the shotgun upside down with the trigger guard up. I clamp on beneath the rear sight and be sure not to smash the trigger group pin. You want the receiver stripped of all parts. Stock and barrel should be out. Youll be applying heat for about 45 seconds at a time. Then slip the 27mm wrench over the lock nut and give it a try. Don’t put a lot of torque on it. You want the heat to do its job. When it doesn’t budge, put more heat on it mainly focusing on the base of the old receiver extension. Then try the wrench again. You’ll see the nut turn a few degrees then get stuck. Apply more heat and try again until it has been removed. Once the nut is free, focus on the receiver extension. Apply more heat and use a 18 or 19mm wrench on the flats of the receiver extension down at the bottom of the extension. You need to keep track of how many full rotations it takes to remove the extension so that you can install the new one at the same depth.
  47. 2 points
    I haven't had good luck with a heatgun on any of the newer M4's. I tried for two hours on one once and got nowhere. The MAPP torch is the way to go. It only takes about 3 - 4 minutes to break the factory thread locker down. You can use the existing locknut which is 27mm on the new receiver extension.
  48. 2 points
    Would be glad to help. If you want to tackle it yourself, it is something that you could be walked through. It will require heat to get the existing receiver extension off. I use a MAPP torch which is pretty inexpensive and safe to use.
  49. 2 points
    The M4 is not "drop safe". When the safety is engaged, it merely blocks the trigger from being pulled. The sear or the hammer for that matter, is not captured in any way to prevent the hammer from falling should the gun receive a violent blow. I never keep a round chambered, I maintain a full magazine and one on the shell carrier when in home defense mode.
  50. 2 points
    There is a lot of misinformation concerning how to remove these recoil tubes from your weapon. Benelli will tell you that you will destroy the shotgun if you attempt to remove the extension. This is only true if you do not heat the threads sufficiently to break the thread locker. Once you've developed the testicular fortitude to complete this project, you must do the following: Disassemble the weapon. You must remove the internals from the recoil tube assembly. Use a pair of snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring at the bottom of the recoil tube. Unscrew the spring retainer. You should put a punch through one of the drainage holes to keep the spring from ejecting when you remove the plug. Contain the spring as the punch is removed. Tip the receiver back to allow the plunger to slide out of the recoil tube. After that, you should spray the recoil tube out with solvent to remove oil and debris that might catch fire during the next process. To remove the tube, you must heat the recoil tube extension's locknut with a heatgun for 30 minutes or more. A propane torch would also work, and be faster. However, a heatgun will be slower and safer. Benelli coats the threads with a green thread locker compound. Make sure you put the receiver in a vice. I found the best place to clamp to was below the rear sight. You do not want to crush the receiver with the vice. Apply just enough tension to hold the receiver in place. Make sure you apply some padding between your receiver and the vice. The nut is common thread. The nut is a 1 1/16" or metric equivalent wrench. You do not want to apply a lot of torque to the receiver. You want the heat to break the locktite's hold. I never used more than one arm to apply torque with. Once it is heated sufficiently, the nut will begin to turn slowly. Continue heating until the nut is completely removed and slides off the end of the recoil tube. Now time for the hard part. Continue to apply heat to the recoil tube threaded area. Use an open ended 3/4" box wrench on the flat spots of the recoil tube to apply torque. These are also common thread. This may take another 30 minutes with a heatgun to break the locktite compounds hold. Note the depth that the recoil tube is screwed into the receiver. Also be aware that this item must be timed to index the stock in an appropriate direction. Once the recoil tube unscrews, clean up the threads with acetone or another solvent. A wirebrush will help. To reassemble, screw the new recoil tube in so that the threads are flush with the inside of the receiver. Thread the locknut over the recoil tube assembly and screw it flush with the receiver. Add the collapsible stock to the tail to act as an index to help time the recoil tube assembly. Once you've indexed it to where you want it, tighten the locknut. What I recommend is installing the collapsible stock at this time, and collapsing it fully. Use the cheek weld piece of the collapsible stock as an index point. Point the cheek weld so it points to the middle of the rear iron sight housing. Once you have it where you want, tighten the locknut. I highly recommend reapplying locktite to the recoil tube and the locknut. Even if you simply use the blue type. The recoil tube extension is pretty easy to screw in. You can do it by hand. Reinstall the internals of the recoil tube. Drop the plunger in, followed by the spring. Press the spring in and retain it with a punch or screwdriver. Screw in the spring plug. Reinstall the snap ring. Install your stock. Hopefully this tutorial is clear. The times needed to run the heatgun are accurate. Prop the weapon up so you can leave the heat on it and just sit by and watch.
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