tucker301

If it is the black finish it's not bluing, and yes, it oxidizes very easily. Did you leave it on the bed of the truck? I always used Hoppes Elite on mine and never had a problem, but I did go ahead and have it dipped last year. Much easier to maintain now. http://www.benelliusa.com/support/contact.php

I've been shooting Black Cloud for a couple of years now, and I've already bought another case for this year. Love the stuff. If that goose really weighed 25 lbs., it belongs in a museum!

Look closely at a LH SBEII. The lower receiver is the same for both RH and LH. The bolt release is on the right side of both models. The only things that are different are the barrel/upper receiver and the bolt.

Mallards or geese? We used a dozen of the flocked mallards last year and were very pleased with them. We keep them in slotted bags and handle them carefully, but some rough treatment and some ice didn't seem to do them any harm at all. Terrific looking decoys! Price? I'd rather have 6 great looking decoys than a dozen mediocre ones any day.

I really didn't see a true answer in your second post. Perhaps I missed something. Are you full-length sizing or neck sizing?

Don't get married.

The 28 footers are pretty rare

Absolutely OK.

Here is where the author caught himself getting close to figuring things out, but then he gave up.

Mike went 4/15. He was second worst.

Read the highlighted text. Increased drop = raised POI

The Z shim gives you a drop at heel of about 50mm. The C shim increases the drop at heel value to about 65mm. Now look at what is stated in the graphic about how more drop at heel rolls the head back and thus elevates the shooter's eye. That results in a higher POI (or lower POA). This graphic shows what the various measurements are and how they relate to each other. Wording can confusing and misleading, if not clarified. For example, Stoffer wrote, "if you lower drop you will also lower point of impact". Did he mean "lower drop" as in increase the amount of drop? Or did he mean lower drop as in decrease the amount of drop? One way he's right and the other he's wrong. It's like the old joke about the guy at the nuclear power plant. His supervisor had to step away for five minutes, but he told the worker before he left, "The pressure can't go too high."

That is exactly what is displayed on the chart.

That's called marketing. Now go and look at FNH's FNAR line. Those are guaranteed to be 1 MOA or better. The R-1 simply isn't built for that kind of accuracy.

What are you trying to accomplish? 2" groups for that rifle are within expected ranges. If you want a more accurate semi-auto, then look at either the AR platform or the FNs. If you want cloverleafs, then you'll have to go to a good bolt gun.

I usually use IC for doves.

Get a better camera? Remove the stock and pull the recoil spring assembly out. See if that frees anything up.

This is a recurring question. Part of the confusion comes from the fact that the Benelli manual doesn't do a good enough job of explaining how drop at heel correlates to POI (point of impact). Firstly, you have to understand how shotgun sighting works. There is no fixed rear sight on a shotgun. The shooter's eye works as the rear sight. Changing the eye position is the equivalent of moving the rear sight on a rifle. This is why it's important to consistently use the same stock position and cheek weld when shooting a shotgun. Raising the head off the stock raises the rear sight. That means that the POI will go up. Moving the head left means the POI goes further left. In this graphic, I have combined the Benelli drop change chart with a very good explanation of drop at heel relates to POI. The full discussion can viewed here http://www.trapshooters.com/cfpages/thread.cfm?Threadid=246131&ShowDeleted=Yes&SortBy=ASC One can go beyond the stock settings with a raised comb (higher POI) or longer/shorter recoil pad. With regards to Right and Left adjustment, you only have two choices with the Benelli, unless you have a custom locking plate made for you. The SX plate, which provides a "cast-on" condition, meaning that the stock is moved slightly left to allow for the shooter's cheek thickness (offset from center) and attempts to center the eye over the receiver for left-handed shooters. The DX plate provides the opposite condition for right-handed shooters. So, what can you do at this point? Well, the first thing you should do is to make sure that you are using proper form. The only way to do that is to have a knowledgeable shooter or gunsmith evaluate your shooting form and offer pointers accordingly. If you think you have proper form, and you just want to get the gun shooting where you aim, then you'll need to customize the shotgun beyond the capacity of the stock shims and plates. As mentioned previously, a higher comb could help you with raising the POI. You could also benefit from the optional thicker recoil pad. That would push your cheek further back on the stock and elevate your eye, raising POI. If you want more cast-on or cast-off, which would move the POI right or left, then you could take one of those plates to a machinist and explain that you need more offset than the stock plate allows. He could fill the existing hole and drill a new one further from center. Be careful with how far you go. You are probably real close and a 1/4" may be all you need.

I didn't realize that they had run out of them!

Awesome! I'd run up heck of a taxidermy bill on something like that!

I hate you so much right now. Post pictures!

He would probably have better luck buying a SBEII LH in the standard synthetic configuration and then picking up the wood furniture separately afterwards. The furniture is not hand specific and I have seen that listed on ebay pretty often at a decent price.

Have you ever shot the gun? Yes? - It's normal No? - Why do you have it?

Good luck with selling it to a one post sig spammer!

What?............