StrangerDanger

Nice job. I saw similar satisfaction in my father's eyes when I bought him a 1928 Southbend lathe. I'm parting out my LMT MRP Piston gun and rolling the cash into a super lightweight carbine with an identical 22lr trainer.

I looked up the Elzetta ZSM Tactical. The system will require tools to disassemble your M4. The AVA Tactical Mount is the ONLY weapon light solution available for the M4 that meets ergonomic, weight specs and tool free disassembly.

http://forums.benelliusa.com/showthread.php/32332-Benelli-M4-Complete-Trigger-Group-Assembly-Guide?highlight=Trigger+disassembly This post has the information you're looking for. You don't need to do a full disassembly, just find the part where the safety is removed and reinstalled.

I thought the original h2o retailed for 2400? Personally, I think you can build your own that would be better for the same money.

Nice SCAR17.

I always get too lazy to hunt down my CLEO and convince him to sign off on a NFA form to get a 14" barrel. My Burnt Bronze M4 would look pretty awesome in a 14" variant. I figure it would be a 1200 dollar 6 month long boondoggle anyway.

bhunted, Looks great!

Envious!!!!

The California model reference is to the neutered receiver extension. That's why they can ship the weapon with what is a functional collapsible stock. The pricing they posted about replacing the receiver extension is incorrect, but certainly can be done by a gunsmith or a skilled end user.

Geissele only makes the hammer unfortunately. There was talk of more at one time, but it never materialized. If you email Todd at FFT, he would probably put an order together with the trigger and disconnector only. I'd recommend getting the FFT too rail and OEM reproduction handguards while you're there.

Glad I could help. You shouldn't have any issues with the new trigger group. I also have a spare and have swapped parts between the two without any issues.

Glad it helped.

Have you considered going to SHOT and getting a cheap booth this year? The exposure might be what you need to get peoples hands and eyes on the product.

What exactly on the hammer is hanging up? I've never heard of the trigger pack not going back into the weapon correctly. The trigger cam pin is supported on both sides by the trigger guard. I can't see how it would negatively affected. Inspect the cam pin itself to make sure no damage was caused during the installation. I recall someone telling me they deformed the pin when reinstalling the snap ring. If you take some pictures of the side profile, I might be able to assist.

Locktite 243 is the recommended locktite for the magazine tube. You should also use the Locktite primer before the application. I personally do not locktite the magazine tube in place. There is little chance of the tube backing out when the magazine cap is in place. Disassembly of the weapon for cleaning is easier when you can remove the magazine tube. I'm not sure of a torque spec. It would be difficult to attach a torque wrench to the magazine tube anyway. I tighten it by hand as hard I can with both hands. Never had an issue.

I don't believe the M1014's are manufactured here. I'm not sure how they got around the qualification. You know, if I made a blinged out gangster M4, some idiot would probably buy it for well in excess of what I put into it.

It's certainly meant to be permanent. It's nothing a little fire won't fix though.

Hey everyone, Everyone see that Benelli has re-released the Benelli H20 with a few changes? It seems Benelli's scheme to make the M4 exempt from 922® compliance by refinishing the weapon with NP3 no longer holds water. The re-release has the fixed pistol grip stock and the bastardized 5 shell magazine tube and faux extension. I found an auction with pretty good photographs to look at what Benelli decided to do with the weapon. For the most part, I believe Benelli decided to take a lot of short cuts with the production of this weapon. Deciding what finish to use on the M4 is sort of a give and take situation. Their choice to use NP3 is a good one, but it has several distinct issues that may bother some users. The base material of NP3 finish offers a smooth Teflon surface that fouling and debris doesn't stick well too. It also provides excellent corrosion resistance. One big negative is your color options. You're stuck with the shiny bling surface if you like it or not. I noticed that Benelli opted not to coat the barrel assembly completely in NP3. The extension that is inserted into the receiver was not coated. Some would argue that it is because Benelli nickel plates this part anyway. I would guess that it was not done because Benelli did not want to remove the ejector from the barrel assembly. So a dip process was used where just the barrel ring forward portion of the barrel was treated. This is unfortunate since the barrel lugs would have benefited from the NP3 treatment. The trigger group was not coated at all on the current production units. Only certain pieces of the trigger assembly were coated such as the shell release lever and the trigger itself. Personally, if I was buying, I would get a 11707 and disassemble the weapon and have the coating done myself. I'd select Nickel Boron so the exterior could be painted whatever color I wished.

Good info to have. Thanks. Makes sense since it's an Italian company. All of the units I've disassembled have also come with the light green threadlocker on the receiver extension. I recall seeing a redish colored threadlocker on a newer production 11707's magazine tube. The adhesion of the threadlocker to the steel magazine tube or the stainless steel receiver extension has been much better than to the anodized aluminum receiver. In all cases, none of the threadlocker was bonded to the receiver. The receiver extension and magazine tube had to be chipped away and was extremely difficult to remove. You can see the threadlocker bonded to the threads on the bottom receiver extension. On the magazine tube. The receiver extension certainly is much harder to remove than the magazine tubes. Seems I got lucky with removal of my receiver extension with a heat gun years ago. All others I've done have required a MAPP torch. On one newer production 11707, I cooked the locknut for literally two hours with my 1000 watt heatgun, and it wouldn't budge. The MAPP torch doesn't screw around and gets it done quick with no discoloring of the black Benelli's. I'd be concerned about using the MAPP torch on one of the water screen transferred finishes.

I have both carriercomp and FFT. I'd say the machining on the carriercomp unit is superior. The lathe work is aerospace grade workmanship. Carriercomp leaves the threading bare where FFT coats the threading as well. I personally prefer carriercomp's method since it allows the surface material a better chance to bond to the receiver's type III anodizing when the proper Locktite is used. Generally, carriercomp is cheaper than FFT. You also get the Wolff spring and a US made follower for the price. The color match of the carriercomp's Cerakote is custom blended to match the finish of the M4. It matches better than the FFT coating. Anything carriercomp has an incredible resale value due to demand outstripping supply. The only negative is the lead time to get a carriercomp tube. With wait times of 3 - 10 months, most users are better off just getting a FFT tube that can be had in less than a month. FFT tubes are nice. They will perform the job as desired.

You should be getting yours soon. I received my shipment from 2/17/2013 about three weeks ago. Longer wait time than I had anticipated, but it was worth it.

Self sufficiency and low cost of living is the way to go. Most of these enhancements feed back into the property value too, so they aren't necessarily losses. Do you have grid access to power? A grid tied solar/wind array is the way to go. Screw batteries. Running a generator work work for emergencies but it will get expensive quick. Water is is always a pain. Few have great wells anymore since nearly every aquifer in the country is polluted. It can cost thousands of dollars to find out exactly what is in the water to begin with. Many items aren't easily detected by sight or smell. How is the humidity down there? You might be able to get by with an atmospheric water generator if the humidity is high. They are a little energy demanding; but they produce perfectly clean water. Having a functioning well is a worthwhile investment if you plan on irrigating anything. Most of those atmospheric water generators only produce about 30 liters a day when operating at peak performance. I believe larger units are available, but the cost and power demands also go up. From my research, that Lennox 21 seer AC is one of the best. It doesn't kick on and off like most central air systems. It ramps the unit up to deal with the demand. It's also ultra quiet compared to most central air units. Another option is going the geothermal route. It might be tough to run on a solar only setup though. If you're building, overkill on the insulation to maximize the efficiency so AC isn't needed so much. 2x8 construction walls or block walls. The metal roof will help a lot. Massive reduction in heat loads if you go with one of the lighter colors. You have a ton if trees, so I imagine that will shade the house some. What I did I I went to google earth and found my place. Then set it so you can change the suns position to show the shadows on the map. It allows you to change thru the different times of the year to see where the sun is. Go go with a wood burning stove rather than a fire place. The wood burners are far more efficient. You'll need a lot less wood to generate the same amount of heat. Since you can control the oxygen to the fire, you can load it up at night and expect coals to still be there in the morning. They're safer too since the fire is contained behind the glass door. Most of the better units from companies like Lennox have blowers on them that'll heat up a house quick. We never even use the blower since it's hot enough from the radiant heat alone. Right now, you can write off 30% of a solar installation on your federal taxes. Your State may have additional incentives. Even with that, a typical setup without batteries is going to run around 30 grand. I suppose it depends how many luxuries you're willing to do without. I would really try to avoid the battery arrays though. They go bad and they're expensive to replace. I just started switching my lighting out from cfl's to the new LED lights. They're more efficient, produce cleaner light and don't have that annoying whining sound. They're also bright from the moment you turn them on unlike the cfl's. They're not cheap though. The LED lights fit in sockets better than the cfl's.

Nice. Part of my FHA loan requirements is to install a well at the property and add a filtration system so I'm not stuck with swill for water. My site has electric, phone and internet on site. I get 4g on my phone there. It has propane delivered for the water heater and stove, but I plan on swapping that out to electric as soon as I settle in. When they put the house in, they placed it on the north east side of a volcanic cinder cone that is on property. So the house is in the shade by 4:30pm this time of year. Should be about 6:30pm in the middle of summer. I'll be doing a grid tied solar system. So I want to consolidate all my utilities to electric. I won't even bother with a landline. We have some wireless internet access out here that is faster than DSL. My goal is to have a zero balance solar system and a three cubic yard trash bill. Obviously, being Arizona, solar performs quite well out here. I'll replace the roof with a steel roof in a few years with a light color surface to reduce cooling expenses. A solar water heater is another good investment. When the existing central air dies, I'll throw a Lennox XC21 in to cut the electric load down even further. Probably add a Lennox wood burning stove to the place in a year or two. Winters here are really mild. We're lucky to see snow once a year and it usually only stays for a few hours. The house currently has a 80' x 30' steel garage on site that I'll be converting to a workshop. It has a full lighted regulation horse arena on site. Along with a horse barn.

I like the forest as well. We were considering a move to the mountains and commuting to work about 50 miles each way. However, land values in the forest here are quite expensive due to their desirability. Plus you're stuck living in relatively close proximity to others. Out here, the nearest house is about 1/3 of a mile away and I'll be sitting on a little over 30 acres. Plus it is a full established functioning ranch. I've considered upgrading the light, just haven't gotten around to it since I've been saving cash for my house purchase.

Beautiful. I'm in the process of buying a place too. Here's my backstop. I would not not change anything on your build so far. Wishing I had the 2moa T1 and the 500 lumen weapon light head.