StrangerDanger

BATF spooked people with their white paper. Dealers and people are buying them up hedging their bets that they will ban importation of all new M4's. They're hoping to cash in on them like the preban M3's with the folding stocks did.

I'm familiar with the push/pull technique. Now your FVG makes more sense to me.

You a lefty? Where'd you get that black carriercomp bolt handle? Did you have it Cerakoted too? Are you doing that 1911 style magazine release mod for the bolt release? I love that top rail. Even if you don't mount anything on the top of the receiver, that abortion Benelli calls a rail should be replaced.

http://geissele.com/pdfs/m4binstructions.pdf http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/26672-Let-s-Talk-Benelli-M-Series-Hammer-Disassembly Benelliwerks thread with pictures. However, my M4 trigger group is a little different than benelliwerks. My unit does not have a d-ring. It has a snap ring with prongs on it that face towards the front of the trigger group. Set your snap ring pliers so they expand when squeezed. My pliers from Ace Hardware just barely fit between the prongs. The instructions say this for snap ring plier size requirements: Using external snap ring pliers (Blackhawk model PT-1285 0.038 inch diameter tip, McMaster Carr PN 5415A11, or equivalent), remove the snap ring. Be careful to positively control the snap ring so that it does not get lost. DO NOT attempt to pry the snap ring off with a screwdriver; doing this will damage the thin-walled hammer pivot pin.

Looking forward to seeing what you're having Kip assist you with. The weight gain you've added is quite minimal considering the added functionality.

It was pulled because of exuberantly high estrogen levels.

From what I've heard, Kip works at his shop at night during the summer to beat the heat.

Didn't care. However, if the option to comply is available, I'll take it.

How does it feel? Are you broom handle holding it, or putting your pinkie, ring and middle finger on the FVG, and running your pointer and thumb forward along the side of the rail? Have you considered flipping the light mount so the lever is on top? I'd worry about it jamming my hand during recoil.

If you chopped a factory M4 barrel down to 10" and added the collapsible stock, the overall package length would be 26" with the stock collapsed. Or, you could go get a legal Keltec shotgun and have 15 rounds with an overall length of 26". It will be a pump though. It won't require a SBS NFA stamp or a ton of cash.

Learn to like handguns if you're serious about carrying. A handgun is the fastest firearm you can deploy. Fractions of a second count. Having a short shotgun in your backpack is about as slow as you can get. Carry strong side hip, or don't bother carrying at all. Unless you're out hiking or camping. Then you could add a rifle or shotgun and sling it. But in town? Handgun. Roughly 15% of the population of Arizona carry a concealed weapon or open carry. No one carries a rifle or shotgun. There might be one in their truck, but that isn't all that common anymore either. Seek professional training beyond the basic CCW classes.

Super easy to install. Snap ring pliers are a must. Pull the trigger pack. De-cock the hammer. Pop the snap ring on the left side of the trigger group. Push the pin out the right side just enough the remove the hammer. Put the new unit in. Push the pin back in. Reinstall the snap ring. Make sure the shell drop lever is sitting on the plunger. Pretty easy job. Finally compliant. Thanks a lot Kip!

You need a set of snap ring pliers.

Benelliwerks just did a pictographic tutorial on how to disassemble the trigger pack a few days ago. I'll be doing mine in about an hour or so.

Mine arrived out here in Arizona today. It's sitting at home right now while I'm at work. Most go by the ATF ruling that you must replace 3 specified parts with US production units to legally install a full length magazine tube, and retain the pistol grip stock. Most opt for the full length mag tube, follower, and either an Urbino or a replacement handguard. This hammer will make compliance cheaper for these users. For use of the collapsible stock, you must replace 4 specified parts. This hammer was the elusive 4th item that no one could get unless they had something fabricated for themselves. Most opt for the full length mag tube, follower, handguards and now the hammer. If quality US made parts become available down the road, I will gladly put them in to further underscore compliance. When and if carriercomp produces a disconnector and maybe a trigger, these will be welcome additions.

mhawley is correct. Take a picture of the inside of your receiver to note the depth in which the tube must be seated. Good luck finding a photo of the inside of the recoil tube on the internet -- I looked. I screwed mine in so that it was flush with the inside of the receiver. Then indexed it as needed. Locktite is mandatory, since you can screw the recoil tube in by hand. The jam nut acts as a safety to prevent it from moving. Locktite both in place. It would be quite embarassing for this tube to break loose during firing. Your stock would likely twist 90 degrees while you have it shouldered.

Did you buy or make those tools? If you bought, mind sharing where? Specifically the red handled spring depressor. I recognize the rest from the Brownells brass punch set.

Sounds like an awesome output. How much did it cost you to assemble?

I've tried a lot of different lighting arrangements with the M4. This is the best one I have come up with. Minimal added weight. Low profile. Surefire M80 Surefire M600c GearSector Offset Mount [ATTACH=CONFIG]725[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]726[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]727[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]728[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]729[/ATTACH]

I have the meprolights on mine. I use the mainly to give myself a visual reference to where the sights are in low light. That is all the rear ones are for. Your eyes are so close to the aperture that you can't even try to align the 3 dots. All they do is give you a visual indicator as to where the rear sights as you shoulder it and take aim. After the first shot, the muzzle flash will blind you and you won't see any front sights at night anyway. Note how the spring sits in the rear housing when you disassemble the rear. It's all pretty straight forward as Unobtanium describes. The front can be a pain simply to source the 5.5mm box wrench. Ignition wrench sets often have one though. It's a royal pain to get the new nut started on the front sight post. It just takes some cursing.

I received a shipping notice, but it might just be a tag being generated. They might not have actually left.

Benelli M4 Factory Handguards: 5.0 Ounces Surefire M80 Rail System (stripped): 7.9 Ounces The added weight shouldn't break the bank. So long as you don't add a pound of stuff to it. Surefire's tech support is notorious for that kind of crap. Same with Brownells. I've been waiting for a PWS billet buffer for 3 months from them.

They look great! Here is some weight data I have collected with my postal scale: Benelli M4 Factory Handguards: 5.0 Ounces Surefire M80 Rail System (stripped, no rail covers ect...): 7.9 Ounces Surefire Ladder Rail: 0.4 Ounces Magpul XTM Panel (two pieces): 0.25 Ounces Factory Top Rail with screws and washers: 1.59 Ounces Given that carriercomp's Titanium tube weighs in at 5.5 ounces, you save approximately 5 ounces of weight by doing this modification. However, given that you're adding two rounds to the weapon, and each round typically weighs about 2 ounces each, you're looking at a wash in terms of weight savings. This is far better than the alternative though. Essentially, you're adding no adverse weight to the weapon, and getting additional capacity. The Surefire M80 doesn't weigh much more than the factory handguards, but it allows you the option to turn the front end into a boat anchor if you're not careful. Even rail covers can add up in weight. 12 sets of XTM's will add 3 ounces. I haven't weighed the LaRue Index clips, but I imagine they're significantly less. Plus, they're more comfortable IMO.

They're crap. I had one. I junked it. Your best option is to go to 3gungear.com and look at that method of attachment.

I believe the high mount is meant to be used with the stock in the fully collapsed position.