Unobtanium

Design Concepts made one out of Ti a while back and they were in stock at several places if you google. Kip filled the demand left behind for the M4 handle when DC shut down and the owner went to Iraq. I tracked him down just to see if he had any left over that I could buy.

Tempted to flip mine for an obscene profit, lol I'll just wait until the next democrat gets elected and sell for $900 like they used to go for.

Buds will sell it for $75 more or so. Insurance and shipping and all that (free from Buds) is going to run nearly $50.

Wow... Oh well, I bought my M4S90 somewhat as an investment as I figure it will get the ban-hammer in the next 5 years. Then it will be like an HKG3 or something. Worth way more than it should be.

1-2 jams per 100? What kind of jams? Are you firing it from the hip? If not, then you have an issue.

found this: http://www.benelliusa.com/forum/showthread.php/22408-M4-buckshot-pattern-results?highlight=patterning among 5 pages of other search results for "Patterning".

http://www.budsgunshop.com Become a "member", then call them and verify stock and order. I bought a 590a1 SPX from them last week and the deal went smoothly. Their current price for the M4S90 is the cheapest new I have seen.

The "oo"s in gunbooth look like breasteses

Kip's is easier to turn than the OEM one because it has a greater diameter, thus giving you much more leverage (distance from outside diameter to center of part being turned=leverage).

That is new, they did not stock it about a year ago. Yes, that is the one.

Have you compared heads-up a green and red laser of comparable quality in the daylight? Print and technicality is nice, but seeing is believing.

Massive difference. A flashlight is used for: threat ID Navigation without it you are not doing any good half the time A green laser is good for: Intimidation? You cannot sell me on a laser over a red-dot optic, or in addition to, or instead of.

They are out there. You want new, or LNIB, or what?

This is odd. I do not have a NOVA, but I have taken my M4S90 apart after zeroing it and it held zero, even when I intentionally varied the tightness of the cap holding the barrel in place a bit.

Very clean!

The choke grease will allow you to properly tighten the choke with a decent wrench without it binding. Rust can occur on/to anything if you abuse it enough, but the grease should help with that, as well.

It's a gun. It's evil. Stay tuned for more legislature once they know we have outsmarted/out-engineered the previous.

I will not tolerate theft regardless of the theif's motive or attire. Breaking and entering is breaking and entering.

*Except for Teague chokes.

I was half asleep. Slideglide is good, but TW25B works better on the BCG in my experience. Slide-Glide is mainly for the FCG, because it is so "sticky". It "strings" and stays on parts like the hammer hook better than something like TW25B.

Yes, T1/LaRue

I have compiled a few tips for those of you who may/may not need them to help you enjoy your M4S90 the most. Trigger: Some triggers just feel and sound gritty. The cause of this is the small spring, the trigger return spring, in the trigger group. Remove the pin that controls the trigger (it is a simple push pin, not the rear one, but the one 1/2 fore the rear one.) Push it to the right just enough to get the trigger out. It lifts out and no other pieces will fly out except that spring, and it is not going to fly. Make sure you do NOT push the pin out so far that you release the other items that it holds in place. Now, what has occurred is that when the weapon was assembled, this spring's and trigger's geometry were not accounted for. As the trigger pivots on the pin you just pushed out, the orientation to the spring changes. The spring bends and then grates over the lip of the recess in the trigger. Gritty as ****. Even sounds bad if you listen close. To correct this, re-install the trigger, using some grease to hold the spring into the recess in the trigger. Do not push the pin in yet. Just get the rear niche in the trigger oriented to the bar in the housing (You will understand once you see it). Now, move the trigger (and spring, consequently) forward. Plant the bottom coil of the spring on the housing and now move the trigger back and into place and slide the pin through it. This should orient the spring in such a way that it will not make noise/grate. It is trial and error, and that is what worked for me, yours may require a different placement, but you can fiddle with it until pulling the trigger is silent and smooth. Next up is that "cylinder" the hammer depresses as it's cocked. Grease that thing. It grates. Do not "polish" anything. Go shoot your M4 and let it do that work. O-rings: On one of the four M4's I have purchased, it was torn almost in two upon inspection (regarding the FP retaining pin O-ring). I replaced it with one from my spare parts. You LUBRICATE this BEFORE installing it and you try to twist as you press, don't just press. That will prevent tearing it. I will call Benelli on monday and get another one to replace it. They have them. Brownells does not. They sell JUST the pin (you need the o-ring). Benelli will sent you a new ring/pin. The o-rings on the gas piston setup are no different except they are far more durable. Just use care when cleaning this assembly. I prefer to use Choke-Tube grease on these threads just because I would HATE for it to seize. Choke Tube Care: Use a good grease MEANT for choke tubes. I prefer Birchwood Casey. Throw away that stupid wrench Benelli sent you and buy a Briley Speed wrench. That way I don't have to read your posts about the choke-tube shooting loose every 25 rounds. Operation: The M4S90 likes to run wet. As long as you use a quality lubricant, that should be fine. Oil it JUST like you would an AR-15. Wet. M4S90's should have a quality grease of medium to lighter weight used on the BCG rails and the cam-pin. I prefer TW25-B. The Fire Control Group also likes grease. A heavy synthetic grease is preferable here. Think the consistency of axle grease. Brian Enos' slide Glide works well. You will also want a "Tornado" bore-brush. It will make clean-up after shooting slugs fast and simple. Anyway, these are just a few helpful hints I have discovered to get the most out of your M4S90. Oh, if Kip makes it, and it is between his product and that of another manufacturer, Kip's product WILL be equal or better. I say equal, only because the follower Benelli sent me appears to be 95% identical to Kips, minus one dimensional change and a US stamped in Kip's. Kip takes time. Don't sweat it.

Well, it is just a few oz up front, but it IS noticeable. I am going to keep the regular HG's on for range use/HD/having fun and put the SF M80 setup on for hog hunting, etc.

I did today. Took about 5-10 minutes, mainly lining the shell elevator up when putting the pin back through.