StrangerDanger

You're going to be hard pressed to find someone willing to make that trade if being honest. What I would do is I would purchase the items you need from either Brownells or Numrich. Brownells: https://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/receiver-action-parts/receiver-action-hardware/springs/retaining-spring-sku301000495-23647-50291.aspx https://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/stock-forend-parts/forend-hardware/forend-parts/retaining-spacer-sku301000550-23702-51009.aspx https://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/stock-forend-parts/forend-hardware/forend-parts/retaining-ring-sku301000549-23701-50341.aspx https://www.brownells.com/shotgun-parts/receiver-action-parts/receiver-action-hardware/pins/axle-bushing-sku301000531-23683-50288.aspx Numrich: https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1439580 https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1439570 https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1439560 https://www.gunpartscorp.com/products/1439380

Thank Bush Sr. and the 1989 Import Ban. The M1014 is Benelli's attempt to give lowly civilians the military M1014 while remaining in compliance with our bullcrap laws.

Vertigo is correct. Just be aware that you will likely break the tips off of the rear sight housing screws upon removal. Usually they're reusable, but sometimes they're not. Benelli charges like 18 dollars each for them. I never bothered to seal the holes in mine. Never experienced any debris flying out of them.

PM sent. I'd gladly do it for free if you want to come up. But we are pretty far away. I'd recommend buying a MAPP torch and doing it yourself. It's practically impossible to mess up and it would be a skill that you own afterwards.

It's pretty easy. Look thru this tutorial.

Cool build AZWhip. Love those Railscales.

It would be hard to do correctly. The parts where the steel pins seat are heat treated. You can see the discoloration around them on the factory 3 position tubes. A machinist would probably charge as much as one from Benelliparts costs to have done.

Unfortunately it’s beyond my skill level to machine a neutered extension into a functional one. Best bet is to wait for another Benelliparts shipment to come in.

They're definitely a lot tighter than the old factory ones. Those you could push in with finger pressure alone. You definitely don’t want to be beating on that pin with a big hammer, but a nice 4 ounce Brass hammer would be safe.

The one Steve Rose linked up near the beginning for the Remington 870. It should work for the Benelli.

Agreed. Tough part to hold and tap in. If you have roll pin holders, it isn’t too bad. The pin fits inside the tip of the punch and allows you to get the pin started. Then you can drive it in the rest of the way.

I’ve used both extensively. No issues with either. Both appear to be nearly identical.

Agreed. It appears you’re deforming the steel of the barrel hanger to put a lip on the retaining hole. So the barrel is probably only good for so many swage events. Brownells delivered the tool for staking these today. Looks like a solid tool. Hope I never use it!

Awesome info Benelliwerks!

And yes, they're standard threads for the receiver extension. Turning it clockwise will tighten it when viewed from the buttpad.

You need to determine if the stock's adjustment button allowed the stock to twist on you when firing. I'd want to inspect the stock to see if any of the pins that lock the stock in place are damaged. This damage could also be on the button itself. If the receiver extension is moving around under recoil, it's dangerous and should be addressed. It's just a matter of time before it twists during recoil and you get socked in the eye by the rear sight assembly. I'd highly recommend fixing it yourself, having Benelli address it or sending it to me. I would not let a general gunsmith try to fix it. I'd remove the stock and pistol grip and get a good look at the jam nut that retains the receiver extension to the receiver. See if there are any signs of movement. If you're handy and not afraid of a MAPP torch and buying a few specialty tools that you likely don't have, I could walk you thru the repairs. I can give you my cell number to text or call if you want to go that route.

That's definitely off. The stock has some wiggle in it so it'll rock back and forth a couple of degrees, but not that much. I use the point of the cheek riser to center the stock with the rear sight aperture. To fix it, you're going to have to remove the receiver extension and time it correctly. This isn't an easy job. Benelli may be willing to fix it for you, but you'll likely be looking at 6 weeks without the shotgun.

I believe so, but you'll need to source longer self tapping screws that the polymer stocks use. You wouldn't need to drill the holes for the receiver extension either. The ideal option would be to use an Airtech 10817, but you'll need to source a Noveske adapter plate for it.

I’ve never had any issues with this snap ring when using the correct tips on the Channellock pair. If you don’t like this ring, stay away from the one that retains the trigger pin to the side of the receiver. That one can be a nightmare to get in or out.

That might be better in your case if you’re going to attempt to stake the parts yourself. Material hasn’t been moved or deformed.

Hmm, that does suck. If you put the oem hammer into the A&S frame, does it pass function check?

Looks good! With that muzzle device, I’d probably add that Briley one round extension cap.

Glad it worked out! You probably didn’t need to go to a full inch diameter for the hole. 7/8” works well as long as you locate it well. You can kind of hog out one way or another with a Forester bit if needed. That rubber plug only tends to bump into the receiver extension in the fully collapsed position that most don’t use when firing the shotgun. So generally I leave them in there.

Correct. No Loctite is needed there. The snap ring is meant to keep the stock retaining screw from backing out. Now if you were using an Urbino, I’d probably use blue Loctite to keep the stock retaining screw from backing out.

Awesome. Order placed. In theory I can see how it works, in practice will probably have a learning curve. Sitting the barrel in a vice so that the barrel hanger At the front is resting on top of the jaws preventing the barrel from shifting downward seems to be the best holding position.