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Benelli M4 (11707) aftermarket add-on advice needed!!!


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Hello all,


I am ready to add some features to my stock M4 (11707), that will also comply with 922®. I use it for 3 gun every now and then, which allows up to 8 shells before the bell, so the 7+1 is valuable to me. In addition, I just feel that my M4 is not quite complete w/out the C-stock...


These are the two routes that I am considering:




FFT full-length mag tube in s/s $159.99

FFT trigger package (hammer, trigger, disconnector) $149.99

Benelli C-stock $350 or so...


This package includes the 4 922® compliance parts needed.


TOTAL COST $660 or so




FFT full-length mag tube in s/s $159.99

FFT follower $24.99

ProMag C-stock(pic looks like a copy of the Benelli c-stock) $180


This package includes the 3 922® compliance parts needed.




I know that the titanium tube weights about 150g less, but the s/s weights less than the stock tube and costs $80 less, so I'm okay with that. All I really want to add is the full-size mag tube and the C-stock the other items are just being added to fulfill the 922® laws.


I would love to hear some feedback from those of you who have had experience with these parts or manufacturers.


Which route should I go? Are these wise options or do you know of better ones?


Thanks in advance for your input!

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I have had a Promag stock on order since February, not sure if they are ever going to make more or not. So I would go with your first option. The FFT parts are of good quality. The trigger components will give you a slightly lighter trigger pull as well.


I would rather the titanium magazine tube, but understand the need for cost savings.

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+1 on the Daves Metal Works speed bar. Quality part and exceptional service. And it installs as quickly as you can change hand guards.

+1 on Benelli C-stock (and heckler&kochp2000). I've had a ProMag on order since March. No return emails, no return phone calls.


I'm considering the SOCOMguy magazine tube and CarrierComp follower.

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Until it starts to rotate. And gets in the way of the bolt handle.
I've got these on 3 M1's. Never had that happen. One's a pheasant gun, gets thrown around in the back of a pickup truck bumping up against stuff and getting knocked over by exuberant dogs while leaning against trees, and otherwise banged around out in the field. One's a 3-gun shooter. Gets thrown down on tables, thrown into barrels, and crashing into the ground when I bust by a## while running downhill on wet grass to a target (ok, that only happened once). The other is on my house-gun entry model. OK, that one basically sits around waiting for me to do something with it. Point is, while the potential is there for it to loosen and rotate, in years of heavy use, I've never had it happen.
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I broke my original GG&G bolt release. The button broke free and was free spinning. I contacted GG&G and the promptly replaced it approximately 8 years after I bought it.


When making adjustments to the pad, I recommend holding the pad with a wrench on the flats. This will take the load off of the pressed in place button.

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Well, I'm not SD but what he's talking about (I presume) is this: The "button" portion of the release mechanism that protrudes through the receiver is a friction fit into the release mechanism that is inside the receiver. It's possible to torque the button loose from the base if you get too aggressive when you tighten or, especially, try to loosen the GGG pad (or anybody else's for that matter). When tightening or loosening the release pad it's advisable to get hold of the pad with a wrench to keep the whole thing from turning when rotating the screw to put on/take off the pad.

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truckcop is correct. Usually I use an adjustable wrench so you can prevent the button pad from trying to torque while you unscrew the fastener. Just open the wrench so it fights tightly around the top and bottom edges of the button pad.


I did the same and used a touch of purple loctite on the treads as mine loosed up after two days of practical shotgun matches. Ever since, hasn't budged a mm.

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