StrangerDanger

Its the way Benelli designed the stock to adjust and lock into position. Pressing the adjustment button in unlocks the stock from the receiver extension. This allows you to rotate the stock 45 degrees to the right. Now you can slide the stock up and down the length of the the receiver extension. Lines are milled into the receiver extension to indicate where the three positions to lock are available. You’ll also note that between the fully extended and the middle position is a disassembly notch. Once over this notch, the stock will then rotate 90 degrees to the left, then the stock can be pulled off of the receiver extension.

It should fit, but I’m not sure if the stock self taping screws are long enough. They’re also a pain to get out of the oem buttpad undamaged. You have to tap them out with a polymer punch and hammer over a block that allows the screw to come out.

Disassemble and clean your magazine tube well. Do not put oil inside the magazine or on the follower afterwards. Looks like anemic feeding or the shell onto the elevator. The last few rounds in the mag tube feed the weakest. If it doesn’t feed strong, the round can cause the elevator to hang up on the front of the shell. Limp shouldering it can cause the action to slow significantly and the bolt carrier can get hung up on the hammer.

Most of the picatinny railed options for the Benelli M4 aren’t very good. An option would be to use the Briley handguard and attach a MLOK tape switch to the handguard. Or you could grind a small pocket into the plastic handguards and secure it with Velcro or even zip ties. Generally I avoid tape switches due to their propensity for failing. I usually use the Surefire Scout tailcap and I machine the shroud off of them so it isn’t jamming my thumb under 12 gauge recoil.

You’ll want the IWC Benelli M4 mount. You don’t need the one with the picatinny rail. I’ve never found a reason to use shorter one cell lights unless you’re building something that needs to be shortened to prevent the light from sticking past the muzzle. Even a 14” entry barrel would work fine with the two cell model.

They’re about 20% lighter for one. The geometry around the mounting foot has less sharp angles. On the Modlite the angles taper nicely to the mounting foot. Here are a couple pictures for you to look over. Modlite 18650 body with a Surefire M600DF lamp. Unmodified Surefire tailcap. Modlite on top. Surefire on the bottom. Top to bottom; Surefire M600C/Surefire/Surefire Tailcap - 500 Lumens on 123A batteries Surefire M600IB/IWC Backbone body/Surefire Tailcap - 100-600 Lumens on 123A batteries Surefire M600DF/Modlite 18650 Body/Surefire Tailcap - 1,500 Lumens on 18650 rechargeable batteries Surefire 18650 body 18650 Rechargeable battery

The carriercomp tube has better matching paint. I like the machining on the threaded portions better too.

Good to hear!

Modlite has some lights that are supposed to be superior to the Surefire DF models in terms of output at a similar price point. I haven’t bought any to confirm yet. The Modlite bodies are better made than the Surefire ones as well. They’re a bit lighter too. I have tested the bodies and they are definitely better.

For sure. That was warp speed for Benelli.

Not sure what happened with him. I know he’s alive. Hope all is well with him.

It’s definitely the 10807. The trouble is those adapter plates are really hard to find these days. Noveske made them, but they don’t seem to want to make anymore. The 10403 classic is more of a direct bolt on design. Unfortunately there currently isn’t an Airtech model that matches its dimensions. The 10403’s are pretty hard to find these days too.

Glad it worked out for you!

Are you using the OEM handguards? I'd swap back to the OEM magazine tube to see if the issue is corrected by the swap.

No. They’re the same mag spring.

Clean jobs. I’m waiting for a few more carbon fiber interior pieces for my Tesla to come in to do some cool photos with the H2O. Should look cool with the carbon fiber and white leather mix.

Agreed. I like the M4 without the iron sights. Less obstruction of the optic and field of view.

I still don’t like how it limits rearward travel of the bolt carrier. It does take some of the recoil off of the harder hitting rounds.

I see no point of the larger dots. They’re fast to find particularly on a weapon where you have a solid cheek weld. I’m mostly using the 1 moa RM09 now. RM09’s are hard to find these days though.

I’d disassemble it, inspect it, see how everything works. Clean off the packing protective oil. Oil it up wet with something good on the action. Grease the sear contacts on the trigger pack. Leave the pistons and magazine dry. Resassemble and take it out. Fire low dram value pack stuff to see how it performs with weak ammo. Shoot as much buckshot and slugs as your shoulder and wallet can stand.

I’d probably go with the Field Stock given that Sophie’s Choice.

The four month wait sucks too. Thankfully I removed my irons. Saved me 264 x 2 dollars. They’re definitely nicer than the Meprolight. My only concern might be the rear being too bright. Your eye is inches away from the rear aperture. The dot is usually nothing but a blur. We’ll see when it gets reassembled. I don’t understand why they wanted the entire sight housing either. It’s not like they’re sighting anything in for you. While the half life of tritium is 10-12 years, I have a few sets at almost 20 years and they’re still quite bright.

It took four months, but these sights just returned with Trijicon lamps installed by Tooltech in a NP3 sight housing. It cost way too much at 262.00 plus whatever it cost me to ship the housings there; but they are quite nice.

You could put a little black RTV inside the hole and wipe off the excess on the top. You could pick it out in the future if necessary.